Jules Audemars Grand Sonnerie | 25750PT | Platinum

This is an example of the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie reference 25750PT*. It was one of two references which the brand announced and created between 1994 and 1995, and they are believed to be the first serially produced grande sonnerie wristwatches ever made. The 25750PT was produced in a limited series of 50 examples. It features a three-position chiming function, as well as a pusher to engage the quarter repeater complication on-demand. It is housed in a 39mm platinum case and is powered by the manually wound calibre 2868 developed by Renaud et Papi. Audemars Piguet and Philippe Dufour are rightly credited with reviving the tradition of grand et petite sonnerie watches in the last two decades of the 20th century. In fact, it was the Le Brassus brand that commissioned Dufour to create a series of five pocket watches with this classical chiming complication. When Dufour went independent, he continued in this vein by first making similar pocket watches with this complication and followed it by creating the first grand et petite sonnerie wristwatch in 1992. This time, Audemars Piguet followed, with the references 25750BA and 25847BA, powered by the same manually wound, quarter repeater calibre 2868, conceptualised by specialist maker Renaud et Papi. The watches were released and created between 1994 and 1995. They were the first serially produced grand et petite sonnerie watch the brand produced. This is one of the 50 examples of the 25750PT in platinum. As the name indicates, the complication refers to a calibre that announces the quarter hours (petite sonnerie) as well as the hour and the quarter hours (grand sonnerie). This function is governed by a three-position selector – silent, petite sonnerie and grande sonnerie. In addition, pressing on the pusher at 10 o’clock in any of these positions chimes the time on demand. Owing to it being a quarter, it announces each hour with a single chime, and each quarter hour with a double chime. Unlike a minute repeater, the quarter repeater does not announce the time down to the minutes. The modern, 39mm case dimension is tempered by the compact 45mm distance from lug tip-to-lug tip. The case stands 10mm tall. The banked bezel is polished and meets a tubular, horizontally satinated midcase. This part features the three-position selector for the grand et petite sonnerie, with the positions hand engraved. This lies between 1 and 3 o’clock. As noted earlier, the pusher at 10 o’clock engages the sonnerie on demand. The large, fluted crown features a domed top with a flathead screw up top to secure it. The straight lugs are soldered on to the midcase and are polished up top and vertically satinated in profile. Their 20mm-distance is furnished by a black, large grained leather strap secured by a signed platinum pin buckle. The pure white dial is furnished with white gold Arabic hours at 12, 3 and 9, with a plot marker for 6 o’clock. The rest of the hours are marked by white gold applied batons, whose scale matches the simple pointer hands that indicate the hours and minutes. These hands have a rounded profile with sharp, pointed edges. A black printed chapter of minutes hashes lies on outer edge of the dial. The subsidiary seconds register at 6, with its printed black chapter, is plied by a simple, black pointer. The circular satinated caseback, with a polished rim, is secured by five screws. It features the serial number within the larger context of all Audemars Piguet watches created up until that point, as well as the serial number out of the limited series of 50. In addition to these, the words ‘grande sonnerie’ are also free hand engraved here. While the solid caseback obscures the calibre 2868 from view, this is logical given that such a closed chamber aids robust sonnerie. Inside lies the finely finished manually wound movement developed by Renaud et Papi. The quarter repeater mechanics draw power from the mainspring, and not from a dedicated secondary barrel as is the case with some sonnerie watches. As a result, engaging the petite or grand sonnerie functions will deplete the 48-hour reserve the mainspring otherwise offers. The chime emanating from this case is distinct, but not disruptive. It serves as a personal reminder of the passage of time, rather than an announcement to the room. The balance beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and the movement pivots on 51 jewels and is adjusted to five positions. The reference 25750PT is of an era of renewed optimism and a desire to revive skills that had laid fallow in the decades preceding it. As the first serially produced sonnerie wristwatch from Audemars Piguet, a leader of this era of fine watchmaking, this reference is all the more important and interesting. Closer look Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Jules Audemars Grand Sonnerie Ref. 25750PT Movement: manual-winding calibre 2868 Functions: hours, minutes, sub-seconds Features: grand sonnerie, petite sonnerie, on demand repeating function Case material: platinum Case diameter: 39mm Case thickness: 9.9mm Lug-to-lug: 46mm Crystal: sapphire front Strap: Audemars Piguet black alligator strap, Audemars Piguet platinum pin buckle Lug width: 20 x 16mm (curved) Year: c. 1990s Condition This Audemars Piguet Complications Jules Audemars Grand Sonnerie is presented in good overall condition. The case and lugs exhibit light surface marks consistent with gentle wear over time. More notable imperfections are visible on the brushed caseback. The dial and hands have been well preserved, showing only minor, expected signs of age. The watch retains its original brushed and polished finishes throughout, with crisp, well-defined hallmarks and engravings. Warranty The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.