2024 Chablis 1er Cru 'Mont de Milieu', Christophe et Fils
The Mont de Milieu is one of my very favorite Chablis vineyards and is relatively unknown, it sits on the right bank of the River Serein and produces discreet wines with irresistible fragrance and gorgeous texture. This doesn't have the immediate power of Montée de Tonnerre but it makes up for that in elan - you could compare perhaps, Mont de Milieu stylistically to Chambolle and the Montée de Tonnerre to Gevrey. Both capable of greatness but in different ways. The soil here is much deeper than you will find with most of the premier crus across the river on the left bank (Vaillons, Montmains, Foret and Butteaux) but not deeper than the profound soils of Montée de Tonnerre or the even deeper soils of the Grand Crus. This wine is a real beauty! Sébastien Christophe is a name that I had been hearing for quite some time from some of the growers that I work with whenever the subject of Chablis came up. The Domaine Christophe is only 9 years old and founded with vines inherited by his Grandfather. Despite being such a young estate the quality and exacting nature of his work has meant that his wines are eagerly sought out and quickly sold out despite him being completely unknown by the media. His success has come completely by word of mouth. The wines of Domaine Christophe all display classic Chablis notes of shells and green apples on the nose, along with a pretty, underlying hint of white flower and lemon. It's the kind of bright nose that gives the drinker intimation of the acidity and tension that will follow on the palate, which is indeed nervy but also generous with an appealing balance of flavours offset by a rocky and saline harmony. The wine finishes with the sort of mouth-coating minerality and mouth-watering citrusy acidity that makes Chablis a favourite amongst lovers of wines that truly reflect their terroir.