Olivier Leflaive Frères 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté "Récolte du Domaine" 750ml
Aligoté has a genuine reputation problem in Burgundy — long treated as Chardonnay's plainer, less prestigious cousin, rarely given the same care or attention. Olivier Leflaive's own team stumbled onto something that changed how they think about the grape entirely: by accident, they discovered that Aligoté "takes rather well to hanging out late," relishing a genuine reprieve on the vine under late summer sun. As a result, Aligoté is now among the very last grapes harvested each year at Olivier Leflaive — a deliberate departure from how most producers treat the variety, and the reason this bottling carries genuine concentration and character rather than the thin, sharp acidity Aligoté is sometimes unfairly known for. "Récolte du Domaine" — harvest of the estate — signals that this wine comes specifically from Olivier Leflaive's own owned vineyard parcels, distinct from the broader négociant business the house also operates. The 2022 vintage draws on fruit from eight small parcels spread across Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, along with Olivier's own very old vineyard in Corpeau — a genuinely patchwork sourcing approach that reflects decades of careful parcel selection rather than a single, uniform vineyard. The domaine's own technical team, Philippe Grillet, Solène Panigai, and Franck Grux, described the broader 2022 vintage across the house's range in terms that apply directly here: "certain comparisons have been drawn with the 2015 and 2019 vintages in terms of richness and generosity of fruit," they noted, "however there is also a sense of restraint and elegance to 2022" — freshness maintained even alongside real ripeness. An earlier vintage of this exact cuvée offers a useful sense of house style: fruit from a similarly reduced-yield year (just 30 hectoliters per hectare, roughly half a normal crop) produced "small and concentrated" grapes delivering "a generous, sunny style," with a wine "clean and uplifting," its "supple, lemon-cream palate" lifted by a modest proportion of barrel fermentation, finishing "with a twist of almond." That's the essential character this cuvée has built its reputation on — genuine concentration from patient, late-picked fruit, a house that treats Aligoté with the same seriousness it applies to its Grand Cru holdings. This is Burgundy's most underrated white grape, made by a producer determined to prove exactly why it deserves more respect. Origins & Craftsmanship Olivier Leflaive Frères is a Burgundian house based in Puligny-Montrachet, operating alongside the closely related but legally distinct Domaine Leflaive. "Récolte du Domaine" designates wines sourced specifically from Olivier Leflaive's own estate-owned vineyard parcels, as opposed to fruit purchased through the house's broader négociant operations. This Bourgogne Aligoté is sourced from eight small parcels spread across Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, along with Olivier's own very old vineyard in Corpeau. Aligoté at Olivier Leflaive is deliberately picked among the last grapes harvested each vintage — a discovery the house's team made by accident, finding that the variety benefits genuinely from extended hang time under late-summer sun, developing real concentration rather than simply preserving high acidity. The 2022 vintage across the domaine's range was noted by the technical team for combining richness and generosity of fruit, reminiscent of the celebrated 2015 and 2019 vintages, while retaining a genuine sense of restraint, elegance, and freshness. In prior vintages, the cuvée has incorporated a modest proportion of barrel fermentation alongside stainless steel, contributing texture without masking the variety's natural brightness. Critics Reviews No numerical critic score is confirmed for the 2022 vintage at this time. Corney & Barrow, Olivier Leflaive 2022 Vintage Report (house-level context): "Certain comparisons have been drawn with the 2015 and 2019 vintages in terms of richness and generosity of fruit, however there is also a sense of restraint and elegance to 2022, sur la fraîcheur tout de même." Corney & Barrow (house style, 2019 vintage of this exact cuvée): "Olivier Leflaive's Aligoté is the fruit of seven vineyard parcels in Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Corpeau. The vintage delivered just half a 'normal' crop — a rather slight 30 hectolitres per hectare! Small and concentrated, the grapes have delivered a generous, sunny style. The wine is clean and uplifting, its supple, lemon-cream palate boosted this year by a judicious (delicious!) proportion of barrel fermentation (15%), finishing with a twist of almond." Tasting Profile The following reflects the confirmed house style for this cuvée; specific 2022 sensory notes were not independently confirmed. Nose Expect bright citrus and a genuinely sunny, concentrated fruit character, reflecting the late-harvested, patiently ripened fruit this cuvée is known for. Palate Clean and uplifting, with a supple, lemon-cream texture typical of the house style, potentially lifted by a modest proportion of barrel fermentation alongside stainless steel. Finish A characteristic twist of almond closes the wine in prior vintages — a signature, distinctive touch that sets this Aligoté apart from simpler, more one-dimensional examples of the variety. Quick Overview Category Details Appellation Bourgogne Aligoté AOC — Burgundy, France Variety 100% Aligoté Vintage 2022 Producer Olivier Leflaive Frères Designation "Récolte du Domaine" — estate-grown, from Olivier Leflaive's own vines Vineyard Sources 8 small parcels — Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Olivier's own old vines in Corpeau Harvest Among the last grapes picked each vintage — deliberately late 2022 Vintage Context Rich and generous, reminiscent of 2015/2019, with genuine restraint and freshness Style / Identity A genuinely serious, concentrated Aligoté — treated with the same care as Leflaive's more prestigious appellations Bottle Size 750ml Food Pairings Fresh oysters and shellfish Goat cheese Escargot Light Burgundian first courses Aperitif, on its own — the traditional Kir base