2022 Barbera d'Alba Superiore, Demarie (Roero, Italy)

The wine that shows what this family does with the grape most Piedmontese actually drink at home. Barbera doesn't get the reverence Nebbiolo does, and Demarie doesn't try to force it into that role. What comes through instead is dark fruit, wonderful acid, and a savory edge that makes it as comfortable at a Tuesday dinner as it is at a formal tasting.