Forge Cellars is one of the names pushing Finger Lakes Riesling into seriously exciting territory. Few are as passionate as Rick Rainey the man at the helm. The 2017 now has that lovely aged Riesling thing going on: lime peel, green apple, wet stone, chamomile, petrol, a little honeyed development and a long, mineral finish. Dry, precise, food-loving and far from boring. This is the bottle for sushi, smoked fish, roast pork, Thai curry, fried things, salty snacks or alpine cheese. Riesling people already know. Everyone else should get involved.