Gaspard Brochet, Champagne 333.d, NV

Three grapes, three villages, three vintages: Gaspard Brochet's 333 is his non-vintage blend, and the name is the recipe. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier come from his vines in Ecueil, Sacy and Villers-aux-Noeuds in the Petite Montagne de Reims, and three harvests always go into the blend. It draws on all three of his villages, where the estate's 14 parcels, some planted in the 1950s and '60s, are all farmed biodynamically. That makes it the natural place to start with this grower. Gaspard was born in 1995 and grew up around wine while his father made it under the Vincent Brochet label. He left for a career in graphic design, came back in 2013 and took over the family vines in 2019. He makes his wines with no additions, and you can still see the designer in him on the label: every edition of the 333 carries a drawing of a different person who matters in his life. It's a tiny estate of just over three hectares, and a blend like this tells you more about a place than any big-house brut.