Thomas-Collardot Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes 2023

A parcel of Puligny planted in 1960 and farmed by the family that owns it — which in this village is rarer than it sounds. For eighteen years the Thomas family's vines were leased out to cousins; in 2010 Jacqueline Collardot finished her viticultural training in Beaune, took them back, and made her first vintage in 2015. Her son Matthieu joined in 2018, and together they work just two and a half hectares in and around Puligny-Montrachet. Les Nosroyes sits on a stony clay-limestone slope at 240 meters, its name a worn-down version of the old French noieroie, a place where walnut trees grew. The fruit is pressed slowly over four hours, fermented with indigenous yeasts in 350-liter barrels, aged ten to twelve months on lees and then rested a few months in stainless steel before bottling — a recipe built for detail rather than weight. Drink it now with a decent decant, or hold it three to five years.