Antique Yemeni Silver Ring

A striking antique ring crafted in silver and carnelian agate. The vibrant orange cabochon rest in a simple bezel mount, but there the simplicity ends... because the rest of the silverwork is a masterclass in metalsmithing. Ropework and granulation and applied motifs all meld together to form an elaborated and ornate band and gallery. "Yemenite legends tell that the first jewelers were goldsmiths. Their origin may date back some 3000 years, when King Solomon started commercial exchanges with the Queen of Sheba. Tradesmen and silversmiths from Judea moved to Yemen, where they continued to work in their professions, e.g. the production of jewelry. Others attribute the origin of Yemenite jewelry to the Jewish tribe of Banu Kianuka, whose members were famous goldsmiths in Medina." * Either way, the jewellery being produced in Yemen during late nineteenth century had a direct, unbroken lineage that stretched back at least 1400 years, if not much, much longer. Compared to the revivalists of Western Europe, who had to re-learn lost styles and techniques by copying artefacts recovered from ancient tombs, the Yemenite tradition is a fascinating, and utterly remarkable, phenomenon. "The profession of silversmith was highly regarded among the Jewish population [in Yemen]. It was mainly carried out by members of rich families, erudite men, and mori (rabbi), who passed the knowledge of century-old techniques, and the composition of soldering solutions from father to son, safeguarding the secrets within their families." * "The demand for jewelry or other silver objects was enormous, and silversmiths did not suffer from competition. In Sana'a alone, up to 300 silversmiths co-habited, each developing its own niche, making solely one type of decorative ornament for many years... In Dhamar (south-western Yemen), one third of the Jewish male population was involved in jewelry making, while in Habban (South-East of Yemen), the whole male population worked as silversmiths. They manufactured ornaments for their own Jewish people, as well as for the Muslim urban, rural or nomadic populations." * For millenia, Yemen has been an important trading hub on account of its geographical location at an intersection of land and sea routes that connect the East and the West, with Northern Africa just across the sea. By the Middle Ages the ancient port of Hadraumat was described by travellers - notably Ibn Al Mujawir and Marco Polo - as a vibrant, bustling melting pot full of merchants and traders from all around the world. Jewellery is also hard-baked into Yemeni history and culture. Known as Sheba in antiquity, this was a place where gold and silver jewellery could be found in abundance. The jewellers who settled in Yemen incorporated elements - like fine filigree, repoussé-work, and granulation - from far and wide: from the Mediterranean and the Balkans to North Africa to India and yet further east. By the early 20th century two families rose to prominence, each with their own super-star jewellers: the Bawsani and the Badihi. *Excerpts from 'Introduction to Yemenite Jewish silversmiths (sayegh) in Yemen before Operation "Magic Carpet"', Esther van Praag, Ph.D. Era: 19th Century, circa 1890 Stone: Carnelian Agate Ring size: Q 1/2 or 8.5 US. Not resizable. Head: 17.3mm by 13.7mm Marks: None, tested as silver Condition: Great antique condition; light wear consistent with age.