Hovel, Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese

The subtly flower-wreathed von Hovel 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese is cider-like in its tart-edged and spice-tinged apple fruit. Extremely delicate, and with thankfully restrained sense of sweetness, it strokes the palate gently and finishes with soothing understatement but relative simplicity. Rather than the attractively soft edges and transparency of this year's Hohecker Riesling, I find this Scharzhofberger Auslese just a tad blurry. I would enjoy this pretty very but far from profound Auslese over the next 12-15 years, and do not envision its ever approaching the level of interest or seduction generated by the corresponding Spatlese. A dreadful health crisis from which he is thankfully now slowly recovering put proprietor Eberhard von Kunow entirely out of commission at critical junctures in the evolution of his 2009 crop, one result of which was a collection abbreviated at the upper end of Oechsle.