T10 Clay Tempered Katana: Hand-Forged T10 Steel Japanese Samurai Sword with Real Hamon and Carved Dragon Saya

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} .woo-product-content a:hover { text-decoration: underline !important; color: #b8913d !important; } .woo-product-content a:visited { color: #c9a84c !important; } @media (max-width: 600px) { .woo-product-content .features-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } .woo-product-content h1 { font-size: 24px; } .woo-product-content .badge-row { gap: 6px; } .woo-product-content .badge { font-size: 11px; padding: 4px 10px; } } T10 clay tempered katana: hand-forged T10 steel with real hamon and carved dragon saya T10 carbon steel hand-forged clay tempered real hamon 18-step mirror polish carved dragon saya full tang free sword bag this katana is hand-forged from T10 high carbon steel. clay tempered. the hamon is real — formed naturally during quenching, not etched. 18-step hand mirror polish gives the blade a reflective surface. the black lacquer carved dragon saya and gold openwork tsuba make this a visually striking sword. the blade has a true kissaki (tip) with yokote line — a traditional feature that shows proper forging. the bo-hi (fuller) runs along the blade, reducing weight and improving balance. hardness is 55-60 HRC — hard enough to hold an edge, the tsuba is zinc alloy with gold finish and openwork wave-cloud pattern. the habaki is copper with diamond pattern. the tsuka has black silk ito over wooden core, with silver chrysanthemum menuki. the kashira is oval, silver chrysanthemum design. the saya is wood with black lacquer and carved dragon relief. it is a high-value katana with real clay-tempered hamon. blade T10 high carbon steel, hand-forged. clay tempered — the edge is hardened, the spine stays flexible. real hamon, naturally formed. 18-step hand mirror polish using japanese water stones. the blade surface is reflective. T10 has about 1.0 percent carbon — it is harder than 1060 and holds an edge very well. the trade-off is that T10 is more brittle, the kissaki (tip) has a yokote line — a clear angle separating the tip from the blade body. this is a traditional feature. many cheap katanas have a rounded tip without yokote. ours has a proper kissaki. the bo-hi (fuller) runs along the blade, reducing weight and improving swing speed. the edge is sharp and ready for light cutting. tsuba (handguard) zinc alloy, gold finish, round shape. openwork (cutout) wave and cloud pattern. the openwork means there are cutout areas — you can see through the tsuba. the wave-cloud pattern is a classic japanese design. the gold finish stands out against the black handle and black saya. the tsuba is sturdy and well-made. habaki (collar) copper, diamond pattern, square shape. the diamond pattern is precisely engraved. copper has a warm color that bridges the gold tsuba and the black tsuka. the habaki fits tightly against the tsuba and blade shoulder. it is a proper habaki, not a cheap stamped piece. tsuka (handle) 26 cm. wooden core. black silk ito wrapped in diamond pattern (katatemaki style). the ito is tight and even. under the ito, there are silver chrysanthemum menuki on each side. the menuki are properly placed and add a decorative touch. the kashira (pommel) is alloy, oval shape, with silver chrysanthemum design. the tsuka feels good in hand — not too thick, not too thin. kashira (pommel) alloy, silver chrysanthemum design, oval shape. the chrysanthemum is a traditional japanese motif. the oval shape is less common than round — it gives the katana a distinctive look. the silver finish matches the menuki. the kashira is securely attached. saya (scabbard) wood, black lacquer finish. a section of the saya has a carved dragon relief — the dragon is sculpted in 3D, then lacquered black. the dragon has scales, claws, flowing body — the carving is detailed. the rest of the saya is smooth black lacquer. the contrast between the carved dragon section and the smooth section is visually striking. the sageo (cord) is black-orange two-tone braided. the koiguchi (mouth) has a metal fitting. construction full tang. the blade extends the full length of the handle. two bamboo mekugi pins hold it in place. you can remove the handle by pulling the pins. the blade is T10 steel, clay tempered, with real hamon. it is a real sword, not a wallhanger. the bo-hi reduces weight and improves balance. this katana is built for practice and display. key features T10 steel blade T10 high carbon steel, hand-forged clay tempered, real hamon 18-step hand mirror polish reflective blade surface 55-60 HRC hardness holds edge very well true kissaki proper kissaki with yokote line clear angle separation traditional japanese feature not a rounded fake tip gold openwork tsuba zinc alloy, gold finish round shape, openwork design wave and cloud pattern lightweight, visually striking copper diamond habaki copper, diamond pattern square shape, precise engraving warm color bridges gold and black tight fit against tsuba black silk tsuka wooden core, black silk ito diamond wrap (katatemaki) silver chrysanthemum menuki oval silver chrysanthemum kashira carved dragon saya wood, black lacquer finish carved dragon relief section detailed scales and claws black-orange two-tone sageo visually striking specifications overall length (with saya) 103 cm (40.6 inches) blade length (nagasa) 71 cm (28.0 inches) handle length (tsuka) 26 cm (10.2 inches) blade width 3.2 cm (1.26 inches) total weight approx. 1.3 kg (2.87 lbs) blade material T10 high carbon steel, hand-forged blade treatment clay tempered, real hamon, 18-step mirror polish, 55-60 HRC tip true kissaki with yokote line fuller bo-hi (fuller), full length construction full tang, double bamboo mekugi tsuba zinc alloy, gold finish, openwork wave-cloud pattern, round habaki copper, diamond pattern, square tsuka wooden core, black silk ito, diamond wrap, silver chrysanthemum menuki kashira alloy, silver chrysanthemum design, oval saya wood, black lacquer, carved dragon relief section, black-orange sageo accessories free sword bag, certificate of authenticity brand ab sword why buy from ab sword real clay-tempered hamon (not etched, not fake) T10 high carbon steel — harder than 1060, holds edge better 18-step hand mirror polish — blade is reflective true kissaki with yokote line — proper traditional feature carved dragon saya — detailed 3D relief, black lacquer finish gold openwork tsuba — wave-cloud pattern, visually striking copper diamond habaki — warm color, precise engraving black silk ito, diamond wrap, silver chrysanthemum menuki full tang, double mekugi — safe and disassemblable free sword bag included certificate of authenticity included we stand behind our craftsmanship frequently asked questions what is clay tempered and how do i know the hamon is real? clay tempered (futokoro-yaki) is a traditional japanese heat treatment. clay is applied to the blade before quenching — thin on the edge, thick on the spine. when quenched, the edge cools faster and becomes hard, while the spine cools slower and stays tough. the boundary between hard and tough creates the hamon — a visible wavy line. our hamon is real, formed naturally during quenching. it is not etched, not laser-engraved, not fake. each blade has a unique hamon pattern. what is T10 steel? T10 is a high carbon steel with about 1.0 percent carbon content. it is harder than 1060 (0.60 percent carbon) and holds an edge very well. the trade-off is that T10 is more brittle — it can chip under heavy use. for a display sword or light cutting, T10 is excellent. for heavy cutting, 1060 is a better choice because it is tougher. this katana uses T10 with clay tempering to get the best balance of hardness and toughness. what does 18-step mirror polish mean? 18-step mirror polish is a traditional japanese polishing process. it uses progressively finer stones and compounds to achieve a reflective mirror finish on the blade. the process brings out the hamon, the grain pattern (hada), and the overall beauty of the steel. our 18-step polish means the blade has been hand-polished through 18 distinct steps — it is not a quick machine polish. the result is a blade that looks alive in the light. what is the carved dragon on the saya? the saya (scabbard) is wood with black lacquer finish. a section of the saya has a carved dragon relief — the dragon is sculpted in 3D, then lacquered black. the dragon motif is traditional in chinese and japanese culture — it symbolizes power, strength, and good fortune. the carving is detailed — you can see the scales, the claws, the flowing movement of the dragon body. it is a striking visual element. what is the tsuba (handguard) made of? the tsuba is zinc alloy, gold finish, with an openwork (cutout) wave and cloud pattern. openwork means there are cutout areas in the tsuba — you can see through them. the wave and cloud pattern is a classic japanese design. the gold finish stands out against the black handle and black saya. the tsuba is round, which is a traditional shape. is this sword full tang? yes. full tang — the blade extends the full length of the handle. it is secured by two bamboo mekugi pins. you can remove the handle by pulling the pins. full tang is the correct construction for any functional sword. this katana is built for practice and display. can i use this for cutting practice? this katana is built as a high-end practice and display sword. T10 steel, clay tempered, real hamon, full tang — it is a real blade. the edge is sharp. you can use it for light cutting practice (tatami mats, bamboo). how do i care for the blade? wipe the blade with a soft dry cloth after every handling. oil it every 2-3 weeks with choji oil, mineral oil, or gun oil. the 18-step mirror polish gives the blade a reflective surface, so keep it clean to maintain that finish. the black lacquer saya can be wiped with a soft dry cloth. the carved dragon section can be dusted with a soft brush. store the sword in the free sword bag when not in use. is this legal to own? sword laws vary by country. in many places, you need a certificate or permit for a sharpened blade. check your local laws before ordering. we ship as a collectible / martial arts item. contact us if you need the blade blunted for legal reasons. what makes this katana a good value? T10 steel with clay tempered real hamon is usually found on much more expensive katanas. 18-step mirror polish is also a premium feature. the carved dragon saya and gold openwork tsuba add visual value. for the price, you are getting real clay-tempered hamon, proper hand-forging, and high-end fittings. it is an excellent entry point into real hamon katanas. ab sword — where tradition meets artistry { “@context”: “https://schema.org”, “@type”: “FAQPage”, “mainEntity”: [ { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “what is clay tempered and how do i know the hamon is real?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “clay tempered (futokoro-yaki) is a traditional japanese heat treatment. clay is applied to the blade before quenching — thin on the edge, thick on the spine. when quenched, the edge cools faster and becomes hard, while the spine cools slower and stays tough. the boundary between hard and tough creates the hamon — a visible wavy line. our hamon is real, formed naturally during quenching. it is not etched, not laser-engraved, not fake. each blade has a unique hamon pattern.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “what is T10 steel?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “T10 is a high carbon steel with about 1.0 percent carbon content. it is harder than 1060 (0.60 percent carbon) and holds an edge very well. the trade-off is that T10 is more brittle — it can chip under heavy use. for a display sword or light cutting, T10 is excellent. for heavy cutting, 1060 is a better choice because it is tougher. this katana uses T10 with clay tempering to get the best balance of hardness and toughness.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “what does 18-step mirror polish mean?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “18-step mirror polish is a traditional japanese polishing process. it uses progressively finer stones and compounds to achieve a reflective mirror finish on the blade. the process brings out the hamon, the grain pattern (hada), and the overall beauty of the steel. our 18-step polish means the blade has been hand-polished through 18 distinct steps — it is not a quick machine polish. the result is a blade that looks alive in the light.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “what is the carved dragon on the saya?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “the saya (scabbard) is wood with black lacquer finish. a section of the saya has a carved dragon relief — the dragon is sculpted in 3D, then lacquered black. the dragon motif is traditional in chinese and japanese culture — it symbolizes power, strength, and good fortune. the carving is detailed — you can see the scales, the claws, the flowing movement of the dragon body. it is a striking visual element.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “what is the tsuba (handguard) made of?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “the tsuba is zinc alloy, gold finish, with an openwork (cutout) wave and cloud pattern. openwork means there are cutout areas in the tsuba — you can see through them. the wave and cloud pattern is a classic japanese design. the gold finish stands out against the black handle and black saya. the tsuba is round, which is a traditional shape.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “is this sword full tang?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “yes. full tang — the blade extends the full length of the handle. it is secured by two bamboo mekugi pins. you can remove the handle by pulling the pins. full tang is the correct construction for any functional sword. this katana is built for practice and display.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “can i use this for cutting practice?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “this katana is built as a high-end practice and display sword. T10 steel, clay tempered, real hamon, full tang — it is a real blade. the edge is sharp. you can use it for light cutting practice (tatami mats, bamboo). but T10 is more brittle than 1060, so avoid heavy chopping. for heavy cutting, we recommend our 1060 or 1095 katanas. always check local laws before using any sword for cutting.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “how do i care for the blade?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “wipe the blade with a soft dry cloth after every handling. oil it every 2-3 weeks with choji oil, mineral oil, or gun oil. the 18-step mirror polish gives the blade a reflective surface, so keep it clean to maintain that finish. the black lacquer saya can be wiped with a soft dry cloth. the carved dragon section can be dusted with a soft brush. store the sword in the free sword bag when not in use.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “is this legal to own?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “sword laws vary by country. in many places, you need a certificate or permit for a sharpened blade. check your local laws before ordering. we ship as a collectible / martial arts item. contact us if you need the blade blunted for legal reasons.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “what makes this katana a good value?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “T10 steel with clay tempered real hamon is usually found on much more expensive katanas. 18-step mirror polish is also a premium feature. the carved dragon saya and gold openwork tsuba add visual value. for the price, you are getting real clay-tempered hamon, proper hand-forging, and high-end fittings. it is an excellent entry point into real hamon katanas.” } } ] }