Deposit for Custom CPM3V Katana

25% Deposit for Custom CPM3V Katana Steel: CPM 3V Polished Blade finish with acid etched Faux Hamon Geometry: Early Nambokucho / Soshu-den style (wide but thin profile with a prominent O-Kissaki / long tip) Curvature (Sori): Shallow, subtle curvature. The blade should look and feel relatively straight (minimal Sori) to ensure fast, linear alignment. Tip (O-Kissaki & Boshi): Long, prominent O-Kissaki with a beautifully defined. Blade Length (Nagasa): 73.5 cm (approx. 29 inches / 2 Shaku, 4 Sun, 2 Bu) measured from the habaki to the tip Handle Length (Tsuka): 26 cm (approx. 10.2 inches / 8.6 Sun) Groove (Bo-Hi): A wide, cleanly carved groove for optimal balance and handling Habaki: High-precision double copper habaki (two-piece habaki) for a perfect, seamless fit in the Saya Fittings (Koshirae): Functional Tensho-style mountings Handle Wrap (Tsukamaki): High-traction brown leather wrap over top-grade ray skin (Samegawa). If possible, textured grip (similar to traditional lacquered/volcanic ash treatments) for maximum grip during dry/wet training Tsuba: Mokko-style tsuba made of folded steel (Tosho style) Acid etched Faux Hamon with swept-back Boshi (Hamon in the tip section). Traditional, seamless transition near the Habaki—meaning no modern stepped plunge lines or recessed grind transitions (no abrupt Klingenmulde), but rather a smooth, continuous traditional flow. Habaki & Seppa: Made of pure, solid copper. Tsuba, Fuchi, and Kashira: Made from 316L stainless steel with a matte finish (such as a sandblasted, non-reflective, or darkened PVD-coated finish). The Tsuba will be a round, lightweight Katchushi-style with a raised rim (Uchikaeshi-Mimi) for structural strength. Engraving on Tsuba: The face of the Tsuba should feature only a clean, traditional chisel engraving (Tagane-Mei) or simple metal inlay (Zogan) of these four Kanji characters (meaning "Son of the Brave"): 勇者之子 Practical non-slip Saya. Finish: A textured, matte dark brown finish (such as a dark brown Ishime / stone-texture or textured dark wood). No high-gloss lacquer, as I want it to be scratch-resistant, easy to handle, and highly durable for daily Dojo training.