Octa Calendrier | Platinum

This is one of the earliest iterations of the F. P. Journe Octa Calendrier*. Produced in the very early days of the series, it is one of the last to feature the brass self-winding calibre 1300 in a 38mm platinum case paired with an exceedingly rare shimmering rose gold dial. The dial aesthetic is built around the annual calendar complication that is elegantly incorporated into the negative space afforded by the watchmaker’s signature off-centre time display. This Octa Calendrier was created and retailed in 2004, in the first year of production, which lasted till 2015. First seen in 2001, the Octa was the first automatic movement to deliver 120 hours of chronometric performance when fully wound. The name, Latin for 'eight', references the days of total reserve the metre-long mainspring can manage, beyond the five days of precision timekeeping. The movement was designed to integrate complications without changing its overall proportions of the calibre, which explains decisions such as the off-centre winding rotor. This allowed the brand to standardise case designs and dimensions as well. Like all movements from the brand, it was originally produced in brass (calibre 1300), but the brand transitioned to forging them from solid gold starting in the middle of 2004. This became the calibre 1300.2. The Octa Calendrier, produced between 2004 and 2015, was the first wristwatch to feature an annual calendar complication with a large retrograde date while offering more than 120 hours of reserve. It was produced in platinum and rose gold in 38mm and 40mm sizes. This example, that retailed in the very first year of production in 2004, is special for a number of reasons. It was one of the very first watches made in this series and as such, it is one of the last to be powered by the brass calibre 1300. It is cased in 38mm of platinum and features a rose gold dial, with this combination of characteristics making this one of but a small handful of examples. The platinum case stands 10.5mm tall. Owing to the short lugs, it is compact and comfortable on the wrist. The bezel is rounded and meets the flat midcase in a lip. A similar detail marks the point where the exhibition caseback comes to the midcase. The lugs, equal in scale to the width of the midcase, flow almost organically from it. They curve sharply, creating the compact footprint we were referring to. The rope-style knurled crown, a well-established brand design cue, completes the picture. The solid rose gold dial has a subtle, brushed texture that shimmers when the light touches it. Paired with the cool shade of platinum, the warm rose dial offers an attractive backdrop for the time display and the calendar complication. The off-centre time display – constructed on a whitened silver base – is concentrated on the right. It features a textured inner sector followed by an Arabic chapter in the brand’s proprietary and signature font. A chemin de fer track of minutes follows, with an Arabic chapter at intervals of five. The smaller seconds overlap this time display and have a sector-style layout. The feuille-style hours and minutes hands are heat-blued, as are the seconds indicator. Reaching from 9 o’clock on the time display is the large date indicator that displays the date chapter that occupies a 240º arc on the left-hand side. It is a retrograde indicator, with the hand springing back to the start of the register on the first of the month. Two windows, placed across from each other at 10 and 7 o'clock, display the day and the month. Being an annual calendar, it requires manual intervention only on leap years. The brand mark and credo are pad-printed between the day and month indications. It completes the thoughtfully laid out and balanced dial. Framed by the rounded rim of the exhibition caseback – on which the brand mark, serial number and precious metal hallmarks are deeply etched – is the self-winding calibre 1300. The bridges are crafted from rhodium-plated brass and adorned with circular Côtes de Genève, with the edges finished with anglage. It is topped by a bi-directional winding, marginally off-centre 22k gold rotor finished with barleycorn engraving and the brand mark. It is technically proficient beyond the 120 hours of chronometric reserve afforded by the metre-long mainspring. The large, 10.1mm diameter balance wheel is free-sprung and works with a straight-line lever escapement. The movement is adjusted to five positions, which is the chronometric standard. The watch comes with its full set of box and paperwork, including a certificate of authenticity issued in 2020 and service paperwork from 2021. The Octa Calendrier is proof positive of the elegant modularity that is at the heart of the F. P. Journe brand. This early and exceedingly rare iteration of the reference will appeal to both aesthetically and historically minded collectors of the brand. Closer look Brand: F. P. Journe Model: Octa Calendrier Movement: automatic calibre 1300 Functions: annual calendar, retrograde date, hours, minutes Features: display back, rose gold dial, brass movement Case material: platinum Case diameter: 38mm Case thickness: 10.6mm Lug-to-lug: 45mm Crystal: sapphire front & back Strap: F. P. Journe black alligator strap, F. P. Journe platinum pin buckle Lug width: 20 x 19mm (curved) Year: 2004 Accompanying materials: F. P. Journe outer box & inner wooden box, certificate of authenticity (signed & dated), warranty card (stamped), service invoice (from 2017) Condition This F. P. Journe Octa Calendrier is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear, only very light superficial marks on the surface of the material. The rose dial, hands, and brass movement are free of imperfections and have been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings are well defined. Warranty The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.