Hanabi | 2.58ct Multicolor Australian Black Opal & Diamond Ballerina Ring in Platinum, c.1980s

Hanabi is a late-Shōwa Japanese platinum ring built around an unusually complex 2.58-carat natural Australian black opal, framed by 1.38 carats of natural diamonds. Measuring approximately 9.89 × 8.37 × 5.1mm, the cabochon is relatively compact face-up for its weight, but very little of that depth is wasted: color travels visibly around its tall edges, turning the sides of the opal into an extension of the face rather than simply supporting mass beneath it. The result is a stone that rewards close viewing from virtually every direction. Approximate current ring size: 8.25 US. Please contact us regarding resizing. Color, Pattern, & Internal Structure Its overall body tone is best classified as N3, although the opal locally moves darker and lighter through approximately the N2–N4 range. That variation comes from an irregular network of naturally occurring black potch running within the stone itself rather than existing only as a dark layer beneath it. Under magnification, this internal framework becomes especially apparent, dividing the opal into numerous small fields through which its play-of-color develops. These dark structures are natural features of the opal, not cracks or fissures. That internal architecture is fundamental to Hanabi’s extraordinary optical complexity. Rather than presenting one dominant flash or a simple field of color, the opal breaks into overlapping sections that can illuminate independently, disappear, reappear, and interact with neighboring colors as the viewing angle changes. In fine-opal terminology, portions of the display can be described as color-on-color: one field of play-of-color appears layered across or alongside another instead of existing as a single isolated flash. Red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and occasional magenta are all readily present. Under favorable bright light, warm red and orange can become especially strong, while some yellow flashes develop into an unusual golden tone that sits visually between yellow and orange. That gold is considerably more apparent to the eye than our photographs and video are able to reproduce. From one of the opal’s lighter back-edge orientations, vivid orange and red can suddenly ignite across the lower portion of the stone while green appears above it, creating one of the most dramatic views Hanabi offers. There is no single permanent “best” orientation. Different lighting environments favor different parts of the stone, and rotating the ring on the hand can effectively reveal an entirely different composition. Indoors, its dark body becomes more prominent and the display simplifies somewhat, although individual colors remain clearly visible. Brighter ambient light unlocks more of the pattern. Direct artificial light, daylight, and sunlight at different times of day can each produce combinations that look meaningfully different from one another. That constant rediscovery is the defining experience of Hanabi. Even after extended viewing, small areas of pattern, unexpected color combinations, and previously unnoticed flashes continue to appear. The Japanese name Hanabi, meaning “fireworks,” was chosen for precisely this reason: against the dark body tone, isolated explosions of color appear, vanish, overlap, and re-form in new combinations much like fireworks against a night sky. Late-Shōwa Platinum & Diamond Architecture The platinum setting gives that relatively intimate geological spectacle a much larger architectural presence. Twenty-four natural round brilliant-cut diamonds form the inner halo around the opal, while forty-eight tapered baguette-cut diamonds create the broad, gently undulating outer surround. Together, the seventy-two diamonds total approximately 1.38 carats, a weight recorded on the ring itself. We estimate the rounds at approximately 0.24 carat total and the baguettes at approximately 1.14 carats. The two diamond groups behave differently in changing light. The round brilliants tend to retain small points of sparkle even when illumination falls, while the step-cut baguettes can become darker and more architectural in subdued environments. Under stronger light, the baguettes come alive in linear flashes that sometimes travel around the ring in sequence as the hand moves. The baguettes also carry a subtly warmer body color than the round diamonds, something most likely to be noticed by a particularly color-sensitive viewer. Although closely related to the classic ballerina-ring tradition, Hanabi has a more sculptural late-Shōwa interpretation. The outer baguette halo rises and falls in a softly irregular wave rather than forming a rigid symmetrical skirt, while the round inner halo creates separation between the opal and the strong linear geometry beyond it. Beneath the diamonds, scrolling open filigree fills the undercarriage of the ring, adding another distinctly Japanese period detail that is largely hidden until the piece is turned over. The ring is substantial in both scale and construction. Crafted in solid Pt900 platinum, it weighs approximately 11.09 grams and measures roughly 20.68mm, or more than three-quarters of an inch, across the top. Its current size of approximately 8.25 US is unusually accommodating for a vintage Japanese ring and gives Hanabi substantial presence on larger ring, middle, or index fingers without requiring immediate alteration. Hallmarks, Japanese Provenance, & CGL Report Inside the shank are the marks “Pt900,” “2.58,” and “1.38,” recording the platinum purity, opal weight, and total diamond weight. The ring also carries the kanji hallmark “徳力,” associated with Tokuriki, although the precise role represented by that mark in this ring’s manufacture is undocumented. Hanabi was sourced through one of OpalPop’s established Osaka estate-jewelry channels in Japan and is attributed to the late Shōwa era, approximately the 1980s. An original Japanese Central Gem Laboratory identification report, number UBA 2597, accompanies the ring. The report identifies the center stone as natural opal, variety black opal, records measurements of approximately 9.9 × 8.3 × 5.1mm, and identifies the surrounding stones as natural diamonds. The document dates to 2018 and shows light wear to its presentation cover consistent with handling and storage. The opal is Australian and is attributed, though undocumented, to Lightning Ridge based on its overall characteristics. A naturally occurring light-colored potch-and-sand inclusion reaches the surface along one lower edge and continues toward the back of the stone. This is part of the opal’s original geological structure and can be seen from certain side views. Condition, Care, & Collecting Hanabi Hanabi survives in exceptionally clean vintage condition. Under magnification, we observe no crazing, cracks, chips, or other significant damage to the opal. The stone sits securely in its setting, and its four substantial prongs appear intact and well formed. No distracting scratches, abrasions, or other wear materially detract from the presentation of the ring. Its elevated four-prong construction is intentional: it exposes the opal’s unusually active sides instead of concealing them within a deeper protective setting. That same openness means Hanabi should be worn mindfully and occasionally rather than treated as a no-precautions everyday ring. Its thick cut gives the opal meaningful physical substance, but a stone with this particular combination of dark body tone, internal structure, warm multicolor play, and optical complexity should be regarded as effectively irreplaceable rather than something for which an equivalent replacement could simply be ordered. For the collector, Hanabi is ultimately about discovery: a rare black opal whose appearance cannot be reduced to one photograph, one color, or even one preferred viewing angle. It offers the pleasure of continuing to notice something new long after the first impression has passed. Its scale and diamond presence also make it a compelling choice for someone seeking an exceptional black opal cocktail ring, while the rarity of the center stone and dramatic platinum setting give it legitimate appeal as an unconventional luxury opal engagement ring for a buyer searching for something that cannot simply be duplicated. More Information The Center Stone: Natural Black Opal, solid carat weight: 2.58cts (inscribed in ring's shank) country of origin: Australia attributed mining locale: Lightning Ridge brightness of color play: B4 of 5 body tone: N3 shape: oval cabochon cut stone measurements (millimeters): 9.89mm x 8.37mm stone measurements (inches): 0.4" x 0.33" play of color description: full multicolor — in bright light, predominantly orange/red with gold/green/blue/purple overtones and blue undertones additional notes: thick cut allows color to roll down sides effectively; gold colors do not translate adequately in photography or video The Accent Stones: Diamond, natural stone count: 72 24 rounds 48 baguettes total carat weight: 1.38cts (inscribed in ring's shank) approx. 0.24ct rounds approx. 1.14cts baguettes cut: Standard Round Brilliant Cuts; tapered baguettes average clarity grade: rounds: SI1 baguettes: VS1 average color grade: rounds: G-H-I baguettes: I-J-K The Setting: Japanese Late-Shōwa Ballerina Halo Ring metal: .900 platinum, solid top of ring width: 20.68mm (0.8") ring height from finger: 12.55mm (0.5") bottom of shank width: 2.18mm ring weight: 11.09 grams approximate current ring size: 8.25 US additional notes: Japanese "Central Gem Laboratory" report number "UBA 2597" included