Beal Air Force 3 Belay and Rappel Device

The multi-pitch belay device: four grooves, two strands, guide mode at the anchor Beal Air Force 3 belay and rappel device: built for the anchor Beal doesn't hedge on this one: the Air Force 3 is built for the anchor. Once the leader is set up at the top of the pitch, the device clips to the anchor by its large metal eye and brings up one or two followers from above. It also belays the leader, device on your belay loop, and it takes you back down on rappel: those are the three uses the manual describes, and there are no others. Beal rates the product Expert. A manual braking device The Air Force 3 is certified to EN 15151-2:2012, the part of the standard that covers manual braking devices, with no assisted braking. In practice, the manual asks for two things. The free end of the rope stays under control in your brake hand the whole time you're belaying, and both strands are held on the braking side. Beal also points out that braking efficiency isn't a fixed property of the device: it depends on the diameter, friction, suppleness and moisture content of the rope, on the cross-section of the carabiner, and on the skill and grip strength of whoever is belaying. There is exactly one case where the device locks: in guide mode, clipped to the anchor, belaying one or two followers from above. Set up correctly, it's designed to lock if a follower falls. That locking has limits, and Beal writes them down in black and white: it can be defeated if the ropes cross, and if one of the two followers is hanging on their rope, the device won't lock on the other one's rope. Two followers on one device is not two independent belays. Locking is also reduced with frozen ropes, and a device that's set up wrong doesn't lock at all. Four grooves, two strands, 7.3 to 10 mm The Air Force 3 has four grooves, two of them V-shaped. It takes a single rope as well as two half ropes or two twin ropes, from 7.3 to 10 mm. The two V-grooves are there to pay out slack easily, control the braking and make the most of energy absorption when the climber falls. Wide and smooth, the grooves keep unwanted friction off the edges and hold rope wear down. The small release hole answers the classic problem with belaying from above: a follower hanging, ropes loaded, and nothing sliding anymore. You thread a sling or a piece of cord through it and use that as a handle, keeping a firm grip on the rope. Beal is clear that the release hole is never to be used for anything else. 89 g, aluminum, individual number The device weighs 89 g, aluminum body. That's what four grooves and an eye to hang it at the anchor cost you, where a plain single-rope tube like the Air Force 1 comes in at 43 g. These aren't two versions of the same product: the Air Force 1 belays on a single rope, the Air Force 3 is the multi-pitch device — two strands, at the anchor and on rappel. One doesn't replace the other. Every device carries an individual number for traceability: handy for following your own gear over the years, and just as handy for running a club's inventory. Beal states an unlimited lifespan as long as there's no reason to retire the device. Why choose the Beal Air Force 3 belay device? Built for the anchor: large metal attachment eye and guide mode to belay one or two followers from above Four grooves, two of them V-shaped: a single rope, two half ropes or two twin ropes, from 7.3 to 10 mm Release hole: free the ropes even under load, with a sling or a piece of cord Wide, smooth grooves: less unwanted friction, less rope wear EN 15151-2:2012: manual braking device, no assisted braking 89 g · aluminum · individual number for traceability Expert level: multi-pitch, alpine climbing, outdoor climbing, big wall, canyoneering Beal, French manufacturer since 1951 Availability and delivery time We order this one from Beal as soon as your order comes in. Figure 5 to 10 business days, depending on what the manufacturer has on hand. Outfitting a club, a gym or a community program? Email us at information@shopclimbing.com and we'll confirm the exact lead time and availability before your order goes through.