Linden Chartreuse Glass Tube Chandelier

The craftsmanshipThe Art Glass DifferenceWhy hand-cast art glass beats molded glass & resin, the many shapes our artisans create, and how to spot the real thing. ▦ Material comparison ✦ One craft, many shapes 🔍 Spot genuine glass Open 01 · Material Comparison Hand-cast art glass vs. molded glass vs. resin Three materials look similar in a thumbnail — but live very differently on your wall. Here's how our hand-cast art glass compares. Our Hand-Cast Art Glass Molded / Pressed Glass Resin / Acrylic Imitation How it's made Hand-cast & shaped by artisans, one piece at a time Machine-pressed in a fixed mold, mass-produced Liquid resin poured into a mold, mass-produced Texture & pattern Unique crackle texture — no two tubes alike Identical, repeating pattern on every unit Flat, "printed-on" look; texture feels superficial Light quality Deep, layered glow; light refracts through real glass Even but flat; little depth or movement Dull, slightly cloudy; can look plasticky when lit Feel & weight Substantial, cool, solid in the hand Solid but uniform Noticeably light, warm, hollow-feeling Color over time Color is in the glass — won't fade or yellow Stable color Can yellow or cloud with heat & UV over time Heat tolerance High — glass handles bulb heat well High Lower — can warp or discolor near heat Character A one-of-a-kind work of glass art A functional, uniform fixture A budget look-alike The takeaway: hand-cast art glass costs more to make, but it's the only one that gives you genuine depth of light, individual character, and lasting color — the qualities that make a fixture feel like art rather than hardware. 02 · Forms & Shapes One craft, many shapes Every piece begins the same way — molten glass, hand-cast and shaped by our artisans. From that single craft comes a whole family of forms, each catching and releasing light in its own way. Hand-shaping molten glass Forming the textured surface Shaping each piece by hand Crafting the crackle texture Bringing color to the glass Finished glass tubes Assembled into the fixture ✦ Custom shapes & colors available Looking for a different shape, size, or color in this art glass? We offer full customization — just reach out and our designers will help. 03 · Buy With Confidence How to spot genuine art glass Online photos can make resin and glass look alike. Here's how to tell the difference once it's in your home — every point below describes our fixtures. 1 Pick it up Real glass is cool and substantial. Resin feels warm, light, and hollow. Our tubes have real weight — many customers say the heavy box was their first clue it's genuine. 2 Look at the texture Hand-cast crackle texture has true depth you can feel with a fingertip. Resin texture looks like it's printed on a flat surface. 3 Turn on the light Glass refracts light into a layered, moving glow. Resin tends to look flat, dull, or slightly cloudy when lit. 4 Compare two pieces No two hand-cast tubes are exactly identical. If every piece looks machine-perfect and matched, it's molded — not artisan glass. Our promise: every fixture is genuine hand-cast art glass. Slight variation between pieces isn't a flaw — it's proof it was made by hand. Exclusive Customization Made To Order Love the design but need it tailored to your space? We offer comprehensive customization solutions — dimensions, surface finishes, chain lengths, and more. Simply tell us your requirements, and we'll take care of the rest. Our Hand-Blown Glass Color Palette Custom Size Surface Finish Glass Color Chain Length Light Count Step 01 Share Your Idea Message us online and get a fast response to your brief. Step 02 Expert Consultation Our designers advise on size, finish, and proportion for your room. Step 03 We Craft It Made to spec and inspected before it ships. support@korewolamp.com The Material What You See Is What You Get Two photographs taken in our own workshop — the glass before it becomes a fixture, and the box before it closes. Real Photo The same tube, in every colourway we blow — colour goes into the melt, never onto the surface Real Photo Foam, frame and hardware — exactly how it leaves us Described Honestly Materials, sizes and finishes are listed exactly as they are — including where hand-blown glass varies tube to tube, and including the fact that green is not a neutral light. We would rather tell you before it is on your ceiling. Colour In the Melt Real hand-blown glass — never acrylic, never a tint sprayed onto a finished surface. The colour enters the molten batch, which is why it deepens where the tube wall runs thick and can never chip, peel or fade. Packed for the Journey Every tube is individually wrapped and foam-seated, with the frame and hardware boxed apart from the glass — exactly as shown above. A tiered glass fixture shipped assembled would not survive the trip; this is why it arrives intact. Lighting comes in clear, amber, smoke and white. Green is the one that gets left out. The Linden Chartreuse Glass Tube Chandelier hangs hand-blown glass tubes in four descending tiers from a gold-tone frame, in a colour almost nobody makes. Lighting comes in clear, amber, smoke and white — green is the one that gets left out. There is a reason for that, and it is worth being straight about: green light is not neutral, and this fixture is not pretending to be. It is a colour decision, in the way a green velvet sofa is a colour decision. What makes it work is that the tint is worked into the molten glass rather than sprayed on, so it deepens where the tube wall runs thick and lifts almost to clear at the edges — and the whole thing shifts warmer the moment it is lit. Unlit, the tubes read as a deep apple-olive, closer to a bottle than to a lamp. Switched on, the green moves toward gold and the fixture becomes luminous rather than dark. 1 A Colour Almost Nobody MakesGreen is the one tint the lighting trade leaves out — which is precisely why a room with one in it does not look like anyone else's. Not a safe choice, and not trying to be. 2 Green Glass That Turns GoldenUnlit the tubes read as a deep apple-olive, closer to a bottle than to a lamp. Switch it on and the green moves toward gold — the fixture becomes luminous rather than dark. 3 Bark-Deep Texture, Formed Not EtchedThe vertical grain is worked into each tube while the glass is still molten, so it sits in the material rather than on the surface. Lit, it catches light along the whole length of every tube. 4 Fifty Tubes, Ten BulbsA generous ratio, and a necessary one — tinted glass absorbs as well as colours, so a green fixture needs more sockets than a clear one to put the same light into a room. Dimensions & Placement ∅ 23.6″ × H 11.8″ ∅ 60 × H 30 cm · four tiers · 50 glass tubes · chain suspension, adjustable Entry Hall & StairwellWhere this piece belongs first. An entry is somewhere you look at a fixture rather than sit under it, which is exactly the right relationship to have with an unusual colour. Keep 7 ft (2.1 m) of floor clearance in any walkway. Living Room & StudySized for rooms of roughly 11 × 13 ft (3.4 × 4 m) — add your room's length and width in feet and read the sum as inches. Centre it over a seating area rather than the geometric middle of the room. Over a Round Table — With One CaveatProportionally it suits a round table 31–35″ (79–89 cm) across, hung 30–36″ (75–90 cm) above the top. But green is the one tint that is unflattering on skin, so if you care how faces look at your table, amber or clear is the safer choice. Over a console or a side table, no such worry. Where It Must Not GoRated IP20 — no protection against water. Not for a bathroom, above a bath or shower, in a laundry, or on a covered porch or balcony. Those need a damp- or wet-rated fixture. Hanging Height Tip A simple guide: allow about 2.5–3″ of drop for every foot of ceiling height. In a standard 9 ft room that puts the bottom of the fixture roughly 7–7.5 ft from the floor. Over a table you can hang it lower — 30–36″ above the top — because nobody walks beneath it. One thing specific to this colour: hang it against a wall, not a window. Backlit, the tubes go dark and the green disappears entirely. Against white plaster with warm wood beneath it, the colour does what you bought it for. The chain shortens on site by removing links, so the final height is set during installation. Need extra length for a stairwell? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll supply it before it ships. Specification MaterialMetal Frame · Hand-blown Glass Body finishGold Glass colourGreen — tint worked into the melt, not sprayed on Glass tubes50 Tubes Dimensions∅ 23.6″ × H 11.8″ (∅ 60 × H 30 cm), excluding chain Light sourceLED or Edison bulb — warm white 2700K recommended Bulb base10 × E12 / E14 (bulbs not included) VoltageAC 110–240V CertificationUL / CE / SAA ControlWall switch — dimmable with dimmable bulbs on a compatible dimmer SuspensionChain — shortened on site by removing links Wiring59″ Hardwired — professional installation recommended MountingCeiling Ingress ratingIP20 — indoor, dry locations only ApplicationEntry hall · stairwell · living room · study · bedroom Customized serviceYou can easily customize the size, finish color, number of light sources, and hanging wire & chain length. Simplify the customization process and communicate directly with our designers online. Please feel free to contact us by email if you have any questions. Our email: support@korewolamp.com What Makes It Special 01 The Colour Everyone Else Leaves Out Look at any lighting catalogue and the palette is the same: clear, amber, smoke, white. Green is missing, and it is missing for a reason — it is not a safe colour, and safe is what most ranges are built on. That absence is exactly the opportunity. A room with a chartreuse fixture in it does not look like a room anyone assembled from the same four options as everybody else. 02 It Changes When You Switch It On This is the part people do not expect. Unlit, the tubes are a deep apple-olive — sober, almost architectural against a white ceiling, closer to bottle glass than to a lamp. Switch it on and warm light travelling through warm-toned green comes back out gold-shot rather than cold. The fixture stops being a dark object and becomes a luminous one, and the colour you live with in the evening is warmer than the colour you see by day. 03 Hooked One by One onto Gold Nothing is glued or sealed into a housing. All fifty tubes hang from their own small hooks along a gold-tone frame, tier by tier, which is why the rows carry a natural give that a moulded fixture never has — and why a single damaged tube can be replaced on its own rather than returning the whole chandelier. The Design Green Is Not a Safe Colour That is the argument for it, not against it. Every decision in a room has a safe version. There is a safe white, a safe grey, a safe oak, a safe brass. Each one is defensible on its own, and none of them is a mistake. The trouble is that safe accumulates — and a room made entirely of reasonable choices ends up looking assembled rather than decided. Nobody plans that. It happens one sensible decision at a time. Lighting is where it shows most, because the palette is so short. Clear, amber, smoke, white — that is very nearly the whole catalogue, and green is the colour left out of it. It is left out for a reason, and the reason is true: green is not neutral. But neutral was never the thing most rooms were short of. What stops this from being merely loud is that the colour behaves. The tint enters the molten glass rather than a spray booth, so it pools dark where a tube wall runs thick and lifts almost to clear at the edges — the piece is never one flat green, and it shifts as you move around it. And it changes state: unlit, the tubes are a sober apple-olive, closer to bottle glass than to a lamp. Switched on, the green swings toward gold and the whole thing goes from dark object to luminous one. Fifty tubes, four tiers, one decision. It is not a fixture that disappears into a scheme, and it was never meant to be. It is the thing in the room that somebody chose on purpose — and that is a quality no amount of correct, careful, reasonable furniture can give a room on its own. The First Thing Anyone Says Guests walk in and mention it before they take their coat off. Nobody has ever commented on a clear glass chandelier — that is rather the point of one. Dusk, When It Turns The moment the switch goes on, the olive lifts toward gold and the fixture stops being a dark shape on the ceiling. You do not get used to it — you keep noticing. A Grey Tuesday in February Flat light outside, everything indoors reading beige. This is the day a colour decision earns its keep — the one thing in the room that has not gone grey with the weather. Safe is easy to arrive at by accident. This one you have to mean. Questions, Answered Before You Order Everything you might want to know about the colour, the glass, and getting it on your ceiling. 01Will it make my whole room look green? Less than the glass looks by day, but yes — there is a cast, and it would be dishonest to say otherwise. Green is not a neutral colour and this fixture is not pretending to be one. Two things soften it considerably. The tint sits deep in the thick part of each tube and thins almost to clear at the edges, so the light leaving the fixture is far less saturated than the glass appears unlit. And warm light travelling through warm-toned green swings toward gold — what fills the room reads closer to a low sun through leaves than to a green bulb. Pale walls help further, because the bounce neutralises what the glass tints. Where to think twice: directly over a dining table. Green is the one tint that is unflattering on skin, and a table is where faces are lit from above and you notice. Over an entry, a stairwell, a seating area or a desk, none of that applies. 02Why does the colour change when it's switched on? Because you are seeing two different things. Unlit, you see light reflecting off the outside of the glass — a deep, sober apple-olive, closer to bottle glass than to a lamp. Lit, you see light coming through it, and warm light passing through a warm-toned green comes out gold-shot rather than cold. The fixture goes from dark object to luminous one, and the version you live with in the evening is much warmer than the one you see at noon. 03Is the glass really hand-blown? Yes. All 50 tubes are gathered molten, inflated by breath and shaped by hand — never pressed cold from a die and never acrylic. The bark-deep vertical grain is worked into each tube while the glass is still soft, and colour enters the molten batch rather than being sprayed onto a finished surface. That is why the texture can be felt with a fingertip, why the green deepens where the wall runs thick, and why it will never chip or fade. 04Will mine look exactly like the photographs? Very close, but not identical. Because every tube is blown individually, wall thickness, grain depth and the saturation of the green vary slightly from one to the next. Silhouette, dimensions, finish, tier count and colour family will match what you see here; individual tubes will not. Screen colour is also indicative only — greens are the hardest colour for a screen to render accurately, so if the exact shade matters, ask us for a photograph of the real glass under a warm bulb before you commit. 05How bright is it? Ten bulbs behind fifty tubes is a generous ratio for this diameter — and it needs to be, because tinted glass absorbs as well as colours. A green fixture needs more sockets than a clear one to put the same light into a room, which is exactly why this one has them. Fitted with warm-white LEDs it carries a living room, entry or study comfortably as the main light. It is an ambient piece rather than task lighting, so at a desk or a work surface you will still want a lamp alongside it. 06What bulbs does it take, and can it be dimmed? It takes 10 × E12 / E14 candelabra-base bulbs, LED or Edison style, not included. Dimming depends on the bulb rather than the fixture: fit dimmable bulbs on a compatible dimmer circuit and the whole fixture dims together. Use a warm white around 2700K — cooler light pushes the green toward grey and drains the gold out of it entirely. With ten sockets, check the total wattage against your dimmer's rating, and use dimmable bulbs throughout rather than a mix. 07What size room does it suit? At ∅ 23.6″ (60 cm) this is a mid-scale fixture. In an open room, add your room's length and width in feet and read the sum as inches — which puts it in a room of roughly 11 × 13 ft (3.4 × 4 m). Over a round table it suits one 31–35″ (79–89 cm) across. At H 11.8″ it is shallow for its width, so it eats very little headroom and sits comfortably under 8–10 ft ceilings. 08What should I hang it against? An unusual colour needs a quiet background. This reads best against white, plaster or pale stone walls, with warm wood somewhere beneath it — the wood is what keeps the green from feeling cold, and the pale wall is what lets the colour register at all. Two things to avoid. Do not hang it in front of a window: backlit, the tubes go dark and the colour disappears entirely, which is the one placement that wastes the whole point of the piece. And avoid patterned wallpaper, which will fight it rather than frame it. 09How high should I hang it? Over a table, hang the lowest tube 30–36″ (75–90 cm) above the top — lower than instinct suggests is usually right, since nobody walks underneath. In any walkway or entry keep at least 7 ft (2.1 m) of floor clearance. For open rooms, allow roughly 2.5–3″ of drop per foot of ceiling height. The chain shortens on site by removing links, and extra length is supplied before dispatch if you tell us your ceiling height when ordering. 10Can I install it on a sloped or vaulted ceiling? Yes — a chain-hung chandelier is the easiest type to do it with. Because the whole fixture hangs from a single point, it stays perfectly level no matter what angle the ceiling above it sits at. The only part to handle is the canopy. A standard one sits flush on a shallow pitch only; anything steeper needs a sloped-ceiling adapter — an angled kit that lets the canopy sit flat against the slope while the chain hangs plumb. Tell us the pitch before you order and we will confirm whether one is needed and supply it. 11Is it difficult to install, and will my ceiling take the weight? It is a hardwired ceiling fixture and professional installation is recommended. The frame and chain go up first, then the tubes are hooked on tier by tier — with fifty of them this takes patience more than skill, and two people make it far easier: one holding, one hooking. Work from the outer tier inward and switch off at the breaker first. On weight: fifty solid glass tubes on a metal frame is heavier than it looks. Confirm your junction box is rated for the fixture's weight and that there is structural support above it — a standard box carries far less than most people assume. Net and shipping weights are available on request. 12How do I clean it, and what if a tube breaks? A soft dry cloth for dust, barely damp for marks, wiping down the length of each tube rather than across it. Work from the top tier down so dust falls away from what you have already cleaned. Avoid abrasive pads, solvents and glass sprays containing ammonia — the grain traps residue. Switch off and let the bulbs cool completely first. Every tube is individually wrapped and foam-seated for shipping, with the frame boxed separately. If something arrives damaged, send photographs within 24 hours of delivery and the affected part is replaced. Because each tube hooks on independently, a single broken tube never means returning the whole chandelier — and we hold spares in this colourway. Still have a question? Our team is happy to help before you order. Ask a Question