18k Seaman Schepps Large Enamel Open Curb Link Bracelet

A solid eighteen carat yellow gold and black vitreous enamel curb link bracelet. Perhaps this is one of the most iconic bracelets, worn by some of the most stylish and idolized women in the world. The likes of Blanche Knopf, the Duchess of Windsor, and Coco Chanel to name but a few, have graced their wrists with a bracelet form this legendary designer. When it comes to American jewelry, few names capture the bold optimism of the 20th century quite like Seaman Schepps. While many jewelers focused on diamonds and formal evening pieces, Schepps built his reputation by celebrating color, scale, and unconventional materials. His bracelets, in particular, became some of the most recognizable and influential pieces of American jewelry design. Founded in 1904 by Seaman Schepps in New York, the company initially specialized in sourcing exceptional gemstones before evolving into one of America’s most innovative jewelry houses. By the 1930s and 1940s, Schepps had become the jeweler of choice for Hollywood stars, socialites, and collectors who wanted something strikingly different from the restrained elegance of traditional European maisons. Clients included the Duchess of Windsor, Andy Warhol, and members of some of America’s most prominent families. Rather than relying solely on flawless diamonds and precious gems, Schepps embraced unexpected combinations. Coral, carved jade, moonstone, turquoise, rock crystal, shell, ebony, wood, and richly textured gold all found their way into his creations. This willingness to mix precious and semi-precious materials gave the jewelry an unmistakably relaxed, distinctly American character. His bracelets became the perfect canvas for this philosophy. During the 1940s through the 1970s, Seaman Schepps produced substantial gold bracelets that balanced sculptural design with remarkable comfort. Wide curb links, woven gold, hammered surfaces, cable motifs, bamboo-inspired forms, and oversized gemstone cabochons became defining elements of the house. Rather than appearing delicate, these bracelets were designed to make a statement while remaining practical enough for everyday wear. Among the most celebrated are the house’s link bracelets, whose oversized, highly polished gold links possess a softness and fluidity that reflects exceptional craftsmanship. Equally iconic are the cable bracelets, inspired by maritime rope and nautical hardware, a recurring theme that reflected Schepps’ fascination with the sea. Many were accented with vibrant gemstones or interchangeable charms, allowing the wearer to personalize the piece over time. Perhaps no design better represents the house than the shell bracelets. Schepps transformed natural seashells, often sourced from the Caribbean, into luxurious works of art by mounting them in heavy gold and pairing them with diamonds or colored gemstones. These designs challenged conventional notions of luxury and demonstrated that beauty could be found in unexpected materials. Today, vintage Seaman Schepps bracelets remain highly sought after by collectors not simply because of their rarity, but because they represent a uniquely American approach to jewelry design. Their generous proportions, inventive use of materials, and unmistakable sculptural quality ensure they feel as modern today as they did when first created. Well-preserved examples from the mid-century period continue to command strong prices at auction, particularly pieces retaining their original gemstones, distinctive gold work, and signed clasps. For collectors, a Seaman Schepps bracelet represents more than fine jewelry. It is a piece of American design history, where craftsmanship, imagination, and a fearless approach to materials combined to redefine what luxury jewelry could be. The bracelet in this configuration of black enamel against the yellow gold is quite scarce, and they rarely come to market. With the price of gold rising, pieces of high end jewellery such as this are going to become extrodinarily expensive to make today, driving retail prices up exponentioally. The clasp is simple and easy to use. It has a hinged break in the end link that has a small button to depress the clasp down to open up the link. It is seamlessly done and very secure, without breaking the aesthetic of the chain design. There is a gold carat mark of 18k stamped on the underside of the clasp, along with the maker's name. The bracelet measures seven and one quarter inches long, and is a heavy weight of over 113 grams, and is one inch and one quarter wide. Please be aware that it is quite short, and so check the measurements. The width of the link means that it will fit a wirst of around six and a half inches. Overall, a really lovely, period, dramatic, high quality bracelet. If you are looking for a wrist statement, it is hard to beat the look of this piece of jewellery, add in the history of the brand and its a combination that cannot be bettered. Made in America, circa 1980's.