2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots

While Saint-Aubin used to be considered the poor cousin to Puligny and Chassagne, Pierre-Yves was one of the key winemakers who put this village firmly on the fine wine map. His parcel in Les Champlots is a 0.65-hectare plot planted back in 1994, sitting high on the slope just above La Chateniere. Because it faces south-west, it catches plenty of afternoon sun, but it also sits right in the path of the valley winds, which keeps the fruit exceptionally fresh and crunchy. The 2023 season threw a few curveballs here, including some minor hail damage in July, but the resulting wine is a total triumph. In the glass, it reveals a lively bouquet that is even more expressive than the 2022 release, bursting with crushed limestone, crisp red apples and a subtle hint of chamomile. There is no heavy, over-oaked flab, just pure terroir transparency. On the tongue, it kicks off with a beautifully defined, sun-kissed opening. The mid-palate is incredibly plush, where juicy melon and grapefruit flavors take the lead. It finishes with a clever, passionfruit-tinged lift and just a soupçon of exoticism. It is an incredibly fun, accessible white Burgundy that delivers plenty of immediate joy and savory tension.