Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Boucheres 2024

Roulot's wines sell out before they're even in bottle. Clos des Bouchères is a walled 1.38-hectare slice of Meursault's Les Bouchères 1er Cru, and the domaine owns all of it. The vines were planted in 1950 and 1980 in shallow, stony soil over oolitic limestone laced with marl and clamshells. That ground gives the wine its salty streak, and the domaine describes the Clos as a stony vineyard, the one most like Perrières. Jean-Marc Roulot bought it in 2011, more than two decades after he put a Paris acting career aside to take over the family estate in 1989. He has farmed organically since the early 1990s, with no herbicides, ploughing only and yields kept down by de-budding. In the cellar he's wary of lees stirring, which he believes adds heaviness and costs a wine its purity. If you love Meursault for its limestone and tension rather than its butter, this is the bottle we'd point you to.