Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 502 — Salmon

The Sellita SW200-1 is 4.6mm tall on its own, and Trematic has fitted it into a case that measures 9mm before the domed sapphire crystal, which adds another 1.8mm. That leaves 4.4mm of case for the dial, the hands and the caseback together, which is why the 502 slides under the cuff of a shirt instead of sitting on top of it. Trematic started in Switzerland in the early 1950s and went quiet in the 1980s, when the quartz crisis closed hundreds of brands like it. It came back in 2022 under Daniele Campagnano, and the new team worked on the quality of its watches for its first few years before reissuing anything from its archive. The Archivio Uno collection is that return to the archive, and the Ref. 502 brings back Trematic's mid-century three-hand watch around a current Swiss movement. The Salmon has a matte pink dial in two tones, with the outer ring sloping down from the centre in the pie-pan style, so the two sections catch the light differently. The hour markers are applied and polished, the numerals are in Trematic's original Arabic typeface, and the polished hands sit over a railway minute track around the edge. I think salmon suits the 502 better than any other colour in the range, because it was one of the dial colours dress watches wore in the period this design comes from. The movement is the SW200-1 in Élaboré grade, which Sellita adjusts in three positions rather than the standard grade's two, and it runs at 28,800 vph with a 41-hour power reserve. It hacks and hand-winds, so setting it after a weekend off the wrist takes a few seconds. The case is 316L steel with polished and satin surfaces, 38mm across with a 45.5mm lug-to-lug and a 20mm lug width. It comes on a grey leather alternative made from fruit, with topstitching and quick-release pins, so changing it to a brown suede or calf strap takes a minute and needs no tools. The water resistance is 50m, which covers rain and washing your hands but not swimming. On a watch made to be worn with a shirt, I can live with that. I am an authorised Trematic dealer, and this one is new and unworn, supplied direct by Trematic with the protective film still on the watch. It comes with Trematic's five-year warranty from the date of purchase, and the photos are of this exact watch. Included: the watch on its grey strap, the Trematic presentation box, the certificate of authenticity, the warranty card and the operating instructions. THE SPECS Reference: Archivio Uno 502 Salmon Case: 316L stainless steel, polished and satin finish, solid steel caseback Size: 38mm diameter, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, 9mm thick (10.8mm including the domed crystal), 20mm lug width Crystal: domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating Dial: matte salmon two-tone pie-pan, applied polished markers, Trematic Arabic numerals, railway minute track Movement: Sellita SW200-1 Élaboré, Swiss Made automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph, 41-hour power reserve, hacking and hand-winding Water resistance: 5 ATM (50m) Strap: grey fruit-derived leather alternative with topstitching, quick-release, pin buckle Warranty: five years from the date of purchase