'Santa Chiara' Umbria Bianco 2021

Before orange wine was hip, there was Paolo Bea's Santa Chiara Umbria Bianco, a skin-contact blend of Grechetto, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Garganega from the Pagliaro vineyard, a high-altitude site of alternating gravel and clay at 1,300 feet. A two-week maceration on the lees — with no sulfur additions — followed by a year on fine lees in stainless steel gives this wine its signature grip and structure. It opens with crushed flower petals, fresh melon, white cherries, and cut herbs, before revealing macerated peaches, candied citrus, brassy spice, and white pepper. A pioneering orange wine long before the style was fashionable — try it alongside your favorite cheesy pasta.