Marqués de Riscal XR Reserva 2021

The barrels the cellar master marked with an X. Now they get their own bottle. XR isn't a marketing flourish — it's a footnote from the archive.For much of the 20th century Marqués de Riscal winemakers followed the tradition of Bordeaux cellar masters by keeping a record of barrels that showed unique characteristics, marking the selected barrels "XR"; this wine pays homage to that tradition. It's still made in the original 1883 winery — hence the Libro de Vendimias (harvest book) framing on the label and that red wax seal. If you know the classic Riscal Reserva, think of XR as its sharper-elbowed sibling. Where the Reserva is all about softness and roundness, the XR is tighter and more taut, its tannins slightly more to the fore. Tasting notes — 2021 Colour: deep, glossy garnet with a bright rim Nose: ripe yet juicy, with plenty of blackberries and a twist of citrus and vanilla, plus elegant hints of tobacco and leather Palate: dark, layered flavours — black fruits, wet tobacco, spiced cocoa and a drop of pine resin — filling the mouth while keeping its restraint and length Structure: medium- to full-bodied with dusty tannins and a very lengthy finish Overall: classic in style, with wonderful balsamic, fine-grained oak, fresh red berry fruit and woody spice From vineyard to bottle Grapes: Tempranillo and Graciano — roughly 95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano Source: the villages around Elciego, on the clay-limestone soils of Rioja Alavesa Vintage: 2021 in Rioja Alavesa brought a cool, wet spring and a warm, even summer for steady ripening and excellent balance; harvest ran later than average with slightly reduced yields but exceptional fruit quality Cellar: fermentation at controlled temperature, not over-extended, then just over two years in American oak with a small percentage in French oak