Movado Sport Ref. 18136 - Orange 'Tangerine' Tropical Dial

While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Laboratories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, well made, and respected — up there with the very best manufacturers. Some of their more sought-after models include the M90 and M95 chronographs of the 1940s - 1970s, the Sub-Sea range, and both time-only and complicated pieces that utilized case designs shared with brands like Patek Philippe, Mido, and DOXA. The watch that we have, a Sport Ref. 18136 from circa the 1940s, is one of the latter 'waterproof' models that shares a similar design and in fact, the same case-maker as properly heavy hitting references from this era. That is, of course, François Borgel. The case itself is 34mm in diameter and features attractive curved lugs, a 'domed' crown, and a screw-down caseback. Its simple 'calatrava'-style design is incredibly versatile and as attractive as ever, but there is no getting around the dial within. Originally silver in color (probably) has aged to a mesmerizing and intense orange 'tangerine' color. There is a little bit of wabi-sabi mixed in there, with some scattered spotting, but it works and presents beautifully. Adding to the appeal are the patinated 'Arabic' indices and matching blued-steel 'syringe' handset. Last but not least, powering this piece is Movado's own Calibre 125 manual-winding movement. In our opinion, and we know there are a handful of other dealers and enthusiasts out there that share this viewpoint, there are not many brands that get design this right. Simple as that. Simple, timeless elegance. Not many brands can do it better...