Champagne William Saintot Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Premier Cru NV

Champagne is practically in Morgann Saintot’s blood, and he remains one of the coolest and most invested winemakers we’ve ever met. His great-grandfather worked for Bollinger in 1917, and in 1951, his grandfather started their family estate. Morgann began his work with his family’s label in 2011 and took over fully in 2016, managing the estate’s roughly 10-hectare vineyard. All of their vines are Massale selection and raised with organic methods, with high-density planting and a full-time dedicated team for pruning. They harvest later than most, with powerful grapes that can hold up to barrel fermentation and aging. Around half of their fruit is sold to Krug, Moet, and Veuve, if that tells you anything about the quality of farming taking place. When our team visited the property, Morgann walked us through the cellar and poured vin clairs that had been aging in barrel for extended periods. The attention to detail was obvious everywhere, from old-vine farming to wild fermentations and long elevage before blending. Morgann is also one of the few remaining grower-producers in Champagne maintaining an in-house nursery and grafting program, preserving both heritage and vine quality. In a bit of a fun and unexpected twist, this isn't a straightforward Chardonnay bottling. It's 88% Chardonnay rounded out with 12% Petit Meslier, one of the rare "cépages oubliés," or forgotten grapes, of Champagne – a variety almost nobody grows anymore. That small addition brings a jolt of acidity and a savory, slightly wild edge you don't often find in a Blanc de Blancs, and it's a totally unique choice that tells you a grower really cares. The wine ferments largely in oak barrel with a portion in stainless steel, then rests around two years (23 months) on the lees before disgorgement, finished at a low 2 g/L dosage in true Extra Brut fashion. The nose is bright and inviting – lemon and grapefruit peel, white flowers, orchard-fresh green apple, and a dusting of sea salt over chalk. The palate follows through with real precision, giving up bits of crisp Meyer lemon and quince, a creamy brush of brioche and toasted almond from the barrel, and that saline, stony minerality that keeps the whole thing taut and mouthwatering. The Petit Meslier lifts the finish with a savory, herbal snap, leaving it long, clean, and beautifully dry. There’s really so much going on here, coming from a producer doing the hard, legitimate work to maintain the land and traditions of Champagne while crafting an exceptional portfolio of wine, all at once. This is an easy add to any Champagne lover’s collection, and we sincerely hope it won’t be the last we see from Saintot!