Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Ref. 251.8.85

Some watches are iconic because they shout. The Reverso became iconic because it turns around. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Ref. 251.8.85 dates to 1999 and keeps the original idea beautifully intact: a slim rectangular watch with a clever case that can slide out, flip over and protect the dial. What started as a practical solution for polo players has become one of the most iconic design gestures in watchmaking. The black dial gives this example a slightly sharper character than the usual silver-dial Reverso. Arabic numerals, a small seconds display at six and clean hands keep the look wonderfully balanced, while the rectangular case and horizontal gadroons bring all the Art Deco charm you could hope for. It is formal, but most certainly not stiff. More jazz club than boardroom. In steel, the case feels crisp and wearable, with a sapphire crystal keeping the dial clear and clean. Turn it over and the brushed caseback gives the watch that lovely Reverso secret: a surface that was originally meant for protection, but has long been used for engravings, initials or a sneaky private story. Even without engraving, just the fact that you are able to, is part of the fun. Inside is a hand-wound movement, exactly the sort of thing you want in a Reverso like this. Winding it by hand suits the watch perfectly, adding a small daily ritual to a design that already feels wonderfully personal. This example is worn on grey ostrich leather strap and finished with its original steel Jaeger-LeCoultre buckle. The Reverso was born in 1931, but this 1999 example shows why the design never really needed reinventing. Slim, graphic, clever and full of character, it remains one of the few watches that can feel both sporty in origin and completely dressed up in practice. A steel Reverso with a black dial, hand-wound movement and all the quiet Art Deco attitude you could want. Elegant, clever and just a little bit playful. Come see it for yourself at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.