Cartier Prive Tank Cintree Platinum No.88
The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos all regarded as important for their distinctive designs. In fact, to this day, it is these beautiful and unconventional designs that continue to attract collectors and allow Cartier to hold a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that few others possess. Exceptionally elegant, majestic, and revered by many for its timeless allure, we have for you today a Cartier Privé Tank Cintrée in platinum. While there are many iconic models from Cartier, it would be hard to dispute that the Cintrée sits among the flagships of the brand. For historical context, the model made its debut in 1921, a mere two years following the introduction of the original Tank, and has intermittently held its place in the brand's repertoire ever since. One special thing to note about the Cintrée, in general, is that it has always been either made to order or produced in very small quantities, making the model itself, irrespective of variant, a very special one. Designed as a more refined and graceful iteration of the Tank, the Cintrée boasts a distinctive case profile characterised by a seemingly broad and elongated yet slender design, this example measuring 46.3mm x 23mm, with a subtle arch that allows it to seamlessly embrace the wrist and effortlessly fit under the cuff. As with all Cintrées, it is hard to describe in mere words just how elegant and thoughtful the case design actually is. It is only after one wears the watch that they truly understand what the hype is all about. I have never seen a watch sit so perfectly flush against my wrist, and that is a true testament to its masterful design. When it comes to the dial beneath its mineral crystal, this example encapsulates quintessential Cartier aesthetic codes, showcasing a tastefully restrained and serene design with a subtly brushed finish that pays tribute to the very first Tank models. Noteworthy details here include a subtle light grey-coloured railway minute track, a pair of polished and highly ornate Arabic ‘12’ and ‘6’ hour markers applied at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively, a set of blackened steel sword hands, and the iconic and striking ruby cabochon set into its beaded crown. Here, the ruby cabochon serves not only as a distinctive Cartier signature but also as a contrasting design element, effectively breaking up the otherwise monochromatic colour scheme of this example. Powering the watch from within is Cartier's manual-winding Cal. 8971 MC, essentially based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Cal. 846, which offers a power reserve of 36 hours when fully wound. Given everything I have discussed above, it's no mystery why the Cintrée has long held such an esteemed position within Cartier—it simply looks and wears like a dream. This particular platinum example made its debut as a 100-piece limited edition at SIHH 2018 (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, now known as Watches and Wonders), unveiled alongside two regular-production variants in 18-carat rose gold and yellow gold. Undoubtedly, it stands out as one of the most iconic Cartier timepieces in the brand’s most coveted metal and is an absolute must-have for any serious collector.