2023 Caroline Morey Beaune 1er Cru Greves Blanc

While Beaune Grèves is famous for its powerful reds, Caroline Morey's white expression from this historic slope is a fascinating, high-wire act of precision. She shares long, 400-to-500-metre rows here with her cousin, Thomas Morey. The Chardonnay vines sit right at the mid-slope and planted back in 2001. Because this specific pocket of dirt absorbs heat and ripens rapidly, Caroline has to pick these vines among the very first in her entire harvest to preserve vital freshness. In the glass, the 2023 shows a beautiful pale colour with a light green tint. The bouquet is lean and lively, bursting with attractive, nuanced fresh fruit that completely aligns with the fun, bright nature of the vintage. Thanks to that early picking strategy, there's zero flab or heavy alcohol to worry about here. The palate delivers fine, delicate aromas that open up into impressive depth. Jasper Morris points out that it misses the sheer mid-palate volume that a red Grèves might show, but it makes up for it with fabulous acidity and a highly persistent finish. It’s an intellectual, tightly wound white Burgundy that needs a little patience. Give it until 2028 to unfurl, and it will drink beautifully out to 2034.