Brunello di Montalcino 2019

This beautiful property, surrounding a 16th century Medici villa, was founded in 1923 by a descendant of the Venetian Fulignis. Although the wines labels still bear that city's symbol, the lion of St. Marco, the family has long been thoroughly Tuscan. The present generations are Maria Flora Fuligni and nephew Roberto Guerrini Fuligni, aka Professor of Criminal Law at Siena University, who styles the wines with oenologist Paolo Vagaggini. Showing the intensity and concentration of the vintage but also the finesse that's the hallmark of this storied estate, the 2019 Fuligni is a stunner. It opens with aromas of camphor, violet, dog rose and spice while the full-bodied, enveloping palate delivers succulent black cherry, crushed raspberry, dried mint and licorice alongside velvety tannins. Boasting a weightless elegance, it closes on a note of almond liqueur. 97, Kerin O'Keefe