Kaneichi Kishu Budō Sanshō

Wakayama Prefecture accounts for the majority of Japan's sanshō production, and has done so for somewhere between 800 and 1,000 years. Yamamoto Katsunosuke founded Kaneichi in 1880 in Kainan City, recognising that the hilly local terrain, unsuitable for conventional crop farming, was ideal for sanshō trees, which prefer the partial shade of a mountainside over full sun. The company has specialised in Kishu sanshō ever since, working with the same farming families across generations. Budō sanshō, named for the grape-like clusters in which the berries grow, produces the largest and fleshiest berries in Japan. Sanshō trees have a relatively short productive life of around ten years, after which yields drop significantly, making farming them a considerable labour of love. The green berries are harvested before they ripen and dried whole, retaining the fragrant outer husk that holds most of the flavour. The effect on the palate is distinctive: a bright, almost floral citrus aroma followed by a tingling, numbing sensation that briefly sets the tongue alight before fading cleanly. A small pinch over grilled fish, tofu, or a bowl of chawanmushi is enough to lift the whole dish.