Tangy Mango Salad Dressing

All summer, in the well-drained soil of Andhra, the Totapuri mango with a parrot-beak end hangs, gathering a taut, almost electric sourness under a hard, relentless sun. But what is a raw mango without some fire? We wanted a semblance of spice that doesn’t overpower the tang, but rather echoes it. Bhavnagri chillies were the perfect fit, because they have this fresh, grassy heat that feels like a quivering spark in the throat. Then we settled in some fresh, bruised coriander into the mix. Lifting, cooling, keeping everything from tipping into excess. Creating a puckering, green-mango energy lashed with a heat that’s scarcely ever sensible.