Maine

Corduroy is a hard-wearing ribbed cotton, used in 18th- and 19th-century Britain for hunting clothes and outdoor work. The wider the wale, the better it stands up to abrasion, which made it valued for clothes worked hard in the fields and hills. This season's "Maine" moves the outer cloth from last year's 12-wale to 8-wale. With wider wales, each rib casts a sharp shadow and the texture under the hand turns bolder. The well-proportioned silhouette and details of last season stay as they were. The cloth itself has swung toward a rugged look that carries the wildness of the field. A belt that cinches at the waist, and action pleats at the back that leave the arms free to swing. Both are details found on the Norfolk jacket, the British shooting coat of the 19th century. Features made for raising a gun and following game passed in time into sportswear. We caught the leading edge of that long line and built "Maine" from it. Maine, the state the name points to, is itself a place ringed by forest and coastline, where hunting and fishing are part of the culture. Wide-wale corduroy is the natural cloth for details with that lineage. Just 1% polyurethane is added to the cotton for suppleness, so the cloth gives slightly as the arms rise and fall. The pattern carries over unchanged from last season. Only the outer cloth is new. Elbow patches in the same cloth give real reassurance against daily wear. The 4 flap pockets on the front take everyday things easily, and act as the supporting player that balances the whole. The cuffs button, so they roll up naturally when needed. Fasten the top button at the collar and it adds welcome warmth on a cold day. Close only the middle button and the slightly wide front placket falls into a gentle curve that reads almost like a lapel. Tie the belt and it is a classic field jacket. Leave it hanging and it reads as a neutral coverall. For all its strong details, pattern making that sits naturally at the shoulder and neck keeps the whole balanced and lets it settle into everyday dressing. 182 cm / 78 kg, wearing size 50 174 cm / 82 kg, wearing size 50 44 46 48 50 Body length 72 73 74 75 Shoulder width 47 48 49 50 Chest 112 116 120 124 Waist 106 110 114 118 Sleeve length 61.5 62.5 63.5 64.5 Material: 99% cotton, 1% polyurethane Lining: 54% rayon, 46% cotton Made in China