Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, Famille Lieubeau, 2022

From old vines on granite soils in Clisson, south of Nantes, where the Loire meets the Atlantic influence. Famille Lieubeau have been growing organically here since 1816. The grapes are hand-harvested, pressed whole, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees for a full 24 months in underground vats unique to the region. This is not the Muscadet you think you know. In the glass, a brilliant gold. The nose is complex and generous: candied citrus, dried flowers, smoke and sweet spice, threaded with a fine mineral edge. The palate is broad and textured, creamy yet structured, with ripe white fruit giving way to a saline, honeyed finish that lingers beautifully. We love it with our whole smoked salmon sides and smoked trout.