A Child's Intensely Pieced Crepe Silk Undergarment: Kaleidoscopic Patterns

late nineteenth, early twentieth century shoulder to hem x width of bottom: 23 1/2" x 16 1/2", 60 cm x 42 cm This magnificent little child's garment is most likely an under kimono. It is sleeveless and is constructed with open sides that are secured with a tie on each side. The garment is made of crepe silk, called chirimen in Japan. The orange toned figured silk is dyed in safflower and the pattern is achieved using the itajime method where carved boards are clamped onto cloth in such a way that they produce a pattern on the cloth. It is the top part of the garment where the visual spectacle is rich. A hexagonal pattern is hand stitched of small pieces of silk, some of the hexagonal cells having more small snippets than you might think is possible. The effect is eye dazzling and kaleidoscopic in effect. Hexagons are often seen on textiles as they represent tortoise shell, and, of course, as a tortoise lives a very long life, the hexagon is shorthand for a wish conveying longevity. There is wear to this piece, especially noticed on the shoulder seam, but it is not extreme nor is the cloth threadbare. The colors on top are bright indicating they are the result of dyeing in synthetic dyes that were introduced in Japan from Germany in the late 19th century. Otherwise the dyed colors are natural. This is a superb folk garment, entirely hand stitched and just beautiful to behold. Very recommended.