1095 High Carbon Steel Katana – Clay Tempered, Full Tang
Hand-Forged 1095 Katana with a Real Clay-Tempered Hamon Last month a customer sent me photos of a katana he bought somewhere else. The “hamon” wiped off with a cloth. It was etched on, not clay tempered. He asked if I could make him a real one. This 1095 high carbon steel katana is that kind of katana. Hand forged. Clay tempered. The hamon is in the steel, not on it. Many customers ask me about the hamon, so I write it here. If you want a wall hanger, buy the cheap one. If you want a katana that cuts, keep reading. Specifications Blade steel: 1095 high-carbon steel, hand forged Temper: clay tempered with a real hamon Edge hardness: HRC 55–60 Tang: full tang Habaki: pure copper, carved pattern Tsuba: black iron mokko tsuba with brass rim Tsuka: real rayskin with beige ito wrap, black kashira Saya: black lacquer with gold-bronze speckle, beige sageo Blade length (nagasa): 28.7′ Tsuka length: 10.2′ Options: sharpened or unsharpened; free cotton sword bag; engraving on request How This Katana Is Made We forge the blade from 1095 high-carbon steel. Then we coat the spine in clay and quench the blade. The edge cools fast and turns hard. The spine cools slow and stays flexible. The wavy line between the two zones is the hamon. It runs the full length of the blade and continues into the kissaki. In daylight the hamon is clearly noticable. It is not etched. It will not wipe off. The fittings are pure copper. The habaki has a carved pattern and seats the blade tight in the saya. The tsuba is black iron in mokko shape with a brass rim. Copper resists corrosion better than bare iron. That matters because the habaki sits at the mouth of the saya, where moisture collects. The tsuka is real rayskin wrapped in beige ito. The wrap is tight, in a diamond pattern. You can see the dark rayskin panels between the diamonds. Shake the handle. There is no play. The saya is black lacquer with gold-bronze speckles, and the beige sageo matches the ito. The kashira cap is black horn. This katana come with a free cotton sword bag. Who Should Buy It It is good choice for your first real katana. Buy it if you want a blade that cuts. Collectors like the clear hamon. Practitioners use it for tameshigiri on tatami and light bamboo. The 1095 edge holds up well. This one is very worth to collect. Do not buy it as a wall decoration. A cheap stainless blade does that job for less. Blade is sharp, please be careful when you hold it. Care CAUTION: Do not touch the blade with bare hands. Sweat causes rust in hours. Apply oil to the blade every month. Use choji oil or light mineral oil. Store the katana in the saya, in a dry place. Do not store it in a damp room. The blade and saya fit tight with no rattle, and they seperate smoothly. If the fit ever loosens, contact us. After cutting, clean the blade first, then oil it. Do not put a dirty blade back in the saya. FAQ Q: Is the hamon real or etched? A: It is real. We form it during the clay tempering quench. No acid, no paint. What you see in the photos is the actual boundary between the hard edge and the soft spine. Q: Can I use this katana for cutting practice? A: Yes. It is full tang, and the edge is HRC 55–60. It handles tameshigiri on tatami and light bamboo. The polish will show scratches after cutting. That is normal for a working blade. Q: Do you ship to my country? A: We ship worldwide with tracking. Canada, France, get free shipping. Other countries pay $45 or $65 per sword. You will recieve a tracking number by email after dispatch. Q: Can I customize this katana? A: We can make custom for you, just tell us what you want. Engraving, sageo color, sharpened or unsharpened — choose at checkout or email us. This 1095 high carbon steel katana is made to be used, not just displayed. Real hamon. Real rayskin. Copper fittings. If that is what you want, this is it. Questions? Email us. We actually reply.
Specifications
- HAND SHARPENING
- Hand Sharpened, Unsharpened
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