Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2023

Frederic Mugnier farms a narrow 0.36-hectare strip of Bonnes Mares, on the Chambolle-Musigny side of this Grand Cru straddling the Chambolle-Morey border. In his hands it's the most powerful and structured wine in a famously perfumed cellar, but power Mugnier-style still means grace: silky texture, lift and transparency over brawn. Production is tiny and the wine is rare. This is Pinot Noir built for the long haul, so cellar it.