We brown beef mince until dark and deeply caramelised, then build the sauce slowly with a soffritto of onion, carrot and celery. White wine reduces right down before beef stock is added, simmering into something rich and full of flavour, softened with milk, lifted with lemon zest and warmed through with nutmeg. Ragù bianco is a northern Italian tradition that predates the use of tomatoes, and maltagliata - meaning badly cut - is the perfect match, its rough, irregular edges holding the sauce in every fold.