Château Brown Pessac-Léognan Rouge

750 mlA 31-hectare estate in Léognan, in the heart of Pessac-Léognan — the Graves sub-region that gave Bordeaux its first great wines. The vineyards sit on deep gravel over clay, sandstone and iron, with another 30 hectares left as woodland, parkland and gardens.The red is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot — more Merlot than most of its neighbours, which softens it. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, then 12 to 16 months in French oak, about a third of it new.Classic Graves: tobacco and woodsmoke over red and black fruit, graphite and cedar underneath, with the freshness and fine-boned elegance the appellation is known for. Firm but polished tannins.Drinking well now, and will hold. Roast lamb, duck, beef, hard cheeses — or a good steak and nothing else.