Ondine Faceted Alabaster Drop Chandelier

The Ondine Faceted Alabaster Drop Pendant is built from two cones set base to base — a solid metal cap above, a tapered alabaster point below — meeting at their widest line and narrowing in opposite directions. The metal half stays dark and holds the fixture; the stone half glows. Because the light has nowhere to go but down through a narrowing point, it leaves the tip as a concentrated, warm spill rather than a general wash. The shape is not decorative. Anything that tapers to a point reads as falling — a raindrop, a plumb bob, a stalactite — and the eye follows it downward whether you intend that or not. One pendant is a full stop. Hang thirteen at staggered lengths and they stop being fixtures and become a movement: a slow spiral of stone descending through a stairwell, each point a little lower than the last, none of them level with any other. Natural Alabaster Naturally Unique Veining No two pieces of stone are ever the same Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown. An inherent characteristic of real stone — not a quality defect. Made to order Need More Heads? We'll Build Them. The versions on this page go up to [__ MAX HEADS], which suits most rooms. It is not a limit. A cluster is simply more of the same cone on more of the same cord — so if your table is longer or your stairwell taller, tell us the count you want and we'll make it. Ask for More Heads Arrangement The Same Fixture, Three Ways to Hang It Every cord shortens on its own during installation — so how the cluster finally looks is set in your room, not in our workshop. Gathered Cords kept short and close, the cones within a narrow band. The group reads as one vertical object rather than several separate lights. → Over a round table, a stair landing, or a small entry. Spread Cords angled outward and set to different lengths, so the cones scatter wider. The same number of shades covers far more ceiling — and more table. → Over a long table, an island, or an open-plan room. Cascade Each cord a step longer than the last, so the cones fall in a continuous diagonal. Built to be read from more than one floor at once. → Down a stairwell or a double-height entry. How to set it. Hang every cord at its full length first, stand back and look at the group as a whole, then shorten one cord at a time. Measure from the tabletop or the floor rather than from the ceiling — that is the distance your eye actually reads. And do not set them level: a cluster at one height looks like an accident, staggered heights look like a decision. One honest limit: the cords come out of fixed points on the ceiling plate, so "spread" means angling them outward as far as the drop allows — not moving the mounting points around your ceiling. The longer the drop, the wider that spread can go. Cords are supplied at 150 cm / 59″; if you need more for a stairwell, tell us your ceiling height when you order. Specifications The Details Material Genuine Natural Alabaster Shade · Brass Cap & Canopy Stone cut and polished; metal electroplated and finished. Finish Black · Gold Light source G9 bulbsA small two-pin bulb, not a screw base. See the note below. Power Max 40W Voltage AC 110–240V Control Wall switch — dimmable only with dimmable bulbs, see note below Suspension 150 cm / 59″ Mounting Ceiling — hardwired Environment Indoor only Preparation time 5–10 days Made and inspected at our own workshop before dispatch. Good to Know G9 is a small bulb — buy spares when you order Not a screw-in bulb. G9 is a two-pin capsule about the size of a fingernail that pushes into the socket. It's what keeps the metal cap this compact — but it isn't sold in every supermarket, so it's worth buying a few spares at the same time. Choose LED rather than halogen: the bulb sits enclosed inside the stone cone with little airflow, and LED runs far cooler. About dimming It depends entirely on the bulbs, and the ones supplied as standard don't dim. To dim it, fit dimmable G9 bulbs in every socket — not just some, as mixing types causes flicker — and pair them with a compatible dimmer. Many G9 capsules aren't dimmable, so check the packaging rather than assuming. Ask us before ordering and we'll confirm a pairing that works. Size Guide Every cluster falls the same distance. What changes with the count is how wide the group spreads across your ceiling. Single pendantBuy one, or several spaced your way 1 LightBuy in multiples ∅ 4.3″ × H 11.8″ ∅ 11 × H 30 cm · on a 19.7″ cord Best forBedside · beside a mirror · powder room. Or buy two or three separately along an island and set the spacing yourself. Ceiling8 ft + The cord is short at 19.7″ — ask for longer if you need it. ClustersOne canopy · staggered heights · 59.1″ drop 3 Lights Canopy ∅ 5.9″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 15 × H 150 cm Best forBreakfast nook · small round table · stair landing · beside a bed Ceiling9 ft + The tightest cluster — reads as one object. 5 LightsMost chosen Canopy ∅ 7.9″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 20 × H 150 cm Best forRound dining table · entry hall · open stairwell · over a kitchen island Ceiling9–12 ft The count most rooms actually want. 7 Lights Canopy ∅ 11.8″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 30 × H 150 cm Best forLarger dining table · double-height entry · open-plan living room Ceiling10–13 ft Where the cluster starts reading as a cascade. 9 Lights Canopy ∅ 13.8″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 35 × H 150 cm Best forStairwell void · two-storey foyer · long dining table · atrium Ceiling12–16 ft Mount over the void, not over the treads. 12 Lights Canopy ∅ 15.7″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 40 × H 150 cm Best forGrand entry · three-storey stairwell · hotel or restaurant · banquet table Ceiling14 ft + Plan access for changing twelve bulbs before it goes up. The design A Shape That Reads as Falling Point it downward and the eye follows it down. There is a small set of shapes the eye reads as descending before the mind has named them — a raindrop, a plumb bob, a stalactite, the tip of an icicle. What they share is a narrowing that ends in a point. Nothing about them has to move; the taper alone is enough. We read the direction and our attention travels with it. Ondine is built from that one instinct. Two cones meet at their widest line and taper in opposite directions — a solid metal cap above, a translucent alabaster point below. The metal half stays dark and does the holding. The stone half glows and does the falling. Hung alone, it is a full stop at the end of a cord. Multiply it and the instinct compounds. A cluster of twelve at staggered lengths stops being fixtures and becomes a movement — a slow descent of stone through a stairwell, each point a little lower than the last, none of them level with any other. From the landing you see it falling away from you; from the floor you see it falling toward you. It is the same object either way, doing the same thing, and it never quite settles. The narrowing does something practical too. A shade that closes to a point concentrates the light instead of scattering it, so what leaves the tip is a defined warm spill rather than a general wash. And because each cone is cut from quarried alabaster, every point in a falling line glows slightly differently from the one above it — the geometry repeats, the stone never does. — Two cones, meeting at their widest line — Questions, Answered Common Questions How low it hangs, which count to choose, and what the light actually does. How long is the cord? Will it hang low enough? It depends which version you buy, and this catches people out. The single pendant comes on a short 19.7″ cord — right for a bedside table, too short for a dining table. The cluster versions hang 59.1″ in total, which suits a table or a stairwell. So if you want a single drop over a dining table, ask us for a longer cord when you order. We supply longer lengths on request — but it has to be arranged before it ships, not after. Does a bigger cluster hang lower? No — and this is the opposite of what most people expect. Every cluster drops the same 59.1″, whether it has three lights or twelve. What grows is the ceiling plate: 5.9″ across on the 3-light, 15.7″ on the 12-light. So a bigger count spreads wider, not longer. Choose by how much ceiling you want covered, not by how far down you want it to reach. If you need more length for a tall stairwell, that's a cord question — tell us your ceiling height. Which count should I choose? 3 lights for a breakfast nook or a small round table. 5 lights for a standard dining table, an entry, or a kitchen island — this is the one most rooms want. 7 or 9 for a double-height entry or an open stairwell. 12 for a three-storey void, a lobby, or a banquet table. The single pendant is a different thing again: buy two or three of them and set the spacing yourself, rather than accepting a fixed plate. How low should it hang? Over a dining table, the lowest point should sit 30–36″ above the tabletop — lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table. Anywhere people do walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. Every cord shortens independently during installation, so you set each height once you can see the group in the room. Should they all hang at the same height? No. The cords arrive cut to different lengths on purpose — a cluster hung level looks like an accident, staggered heights look like a decision. Hang them all long first, stand back and look at the group as a whole, then shorten one cord at a time. Measure from the tabletop or the floor rather than from the ceiling — that's the distance your eye actually reads. What kind of light does it give? Two things at once. The stone cone narrows to a point, so the light concentrates as it comes down and lands as a defined warm pool rather than a broad wash. At the same time the alabaster itself glows along its sides. That combination is unusual: most fixtures either light the surface below or look pretty doing nothing useful. This does both — a glowing object above, a working pool of light beneath. What bulbs does it take? G9 bulbs — and these are worth knowing about before yours arrives. A G9 isn't a screw-in bulb; it's a small two-pin capsule about the size of a fingernail that pushes into the socket. Bulbs are included. When you buy replacements, choose LED rather than halogen: the bulb sits enclosed inside the stone with little airflow, and LED runs far cooler. Pick warm white around 2700K — cool white makes alabaster look grey. And buy a few spares: G9 isn't sold in every supermarket. Can I dim it? Yes, but the bulbs supplied as standard don't dim. You'd need to fit dimmable G9 bulbs in every socket — not just some, as mixing types causes flicker — and pair them with a dimmer switch. Many G9 capsules aren't dimmable, so check the packaging rather than assuming. Ask us before ordering and we'll confirm a bulb and dimmer combination that works. Why don't the stones all match? Because they're cut from real quarried stone, not moulded from resin. Every cone has its own veining, and one or two will glow a little warmer than the ones beside them. On a single pendant you'd never notice. On a cluster, hung side by side, it's the first thing you see — and it's what tells you the stone is real. A set that matched perfectly would have to be plastic. Will my ceiling hold it? Stone weighs more than it looks, and on the larger clusters all of it hangs from one plate. Before ordering, have your electrician confirm the ceiling box is rated for the weight and fixed into a joist rather than plasterboard alone. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration and pass it on. How do I clean it? A soft dry cloth on the stone, working from the highest cone down. Keep water off the shades — alabaster is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that won't buff out. No sprays, no polish, nothing abrasive. The metal cap can take a barely damp cloth followed by a dry one. Switch off and let it cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty. Can I put it in a bathroom? No — indoor dry rooms only, with no protection against water or steam. Alabaster is porous too, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Dining rooms, bedrooms, entries, stairwells and living rooms are all fine. Installation The Complete Installation Guide Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes. 01 Power Off First Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring. 02 Check the Box Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight. 03 Match the Wires Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained. 04 Set the Height Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers. Read the Full Installation Guide Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab More alabaster Same Stone, Cut a Different Way Every one of these hangs from a single ceiling plate on staggered cords. What changes is the shape the stone was cut into — and what that shape does to the light. 1–18 heads Hourglass Duo Alabaster Pendant Lamp Two bowls per drop · White + Gold One bowl inverted over another, meeting at a brass bead. Light escapes upward and downward at once — where Ondine narrows to a point, this opens at both ends. The widest range in the series. From $595.00 View Details Threaded Marlen Stacked Stone Alabaster Chandelier Discs on a rod · Gold, Black, Nickel The rod passes straight through the stone and carries on below it — a bead on a wire rather than a shade on a cord. Barely an inch wide, so you see straight through a cluster of eleven. From $495.00 View Details Decanter Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier Rounded shades · Black, White Full, rounded shades rather than a taper — more glow, less directed beam. Choose it when you want the fixture to light the room around it rather than the surface beneath it. From $595.00 View Details Petal Alabaster Petal Cluster Chandelier Curved petals · [__ FINISHES] Curved rather than conical, so the stone catches light along its edge as well as through its face. The softest silhouette of the group — closer to a flower than a fixture. From $895.00 View Details Shop the Alabaster Series