A Sicilian sweetmeat, in quadruple. Meet the Cannoli - four hand-poured little bundles of shell and cream, each crimped crust and piped filling rendered in wax by an Italian family atelier in Puglia, six generations into the craft and still paying attention to the details, since 1840. Arrange them on a footed cake stand for a dessert spread that never melts. Scatter them down a long table as place cards in disguise. Gift a pair, keep a pair - the kind of object that makes a dinner feel like an occasion. Dust of powdered sugar, entirely imagined. Burn sparingly. Keep always.