Gazin 2020

93+ points | The Wine Advocate, William Kelley A muscular, youthfully structured wine, the 2020 Gazin unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries, vine smoke, spices and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and powerful, with ample reserves of powdery tannin that will require a bit of patience in bottle. Directed by Christophe de Baillencourt and overseen by Mickael Obert, this 24-hectare family-owned estate is producing its best wines in the modern era. The vineyards themselves straddle two essential soil types: gravels opposite the château and deep clays on the plateau (where the estate is a neighbor of Pétrus, to which it ceded a prime bloc in the 1960s). Herbicides have never been used here, and cover crops are the order of the day since 2018. Planted with 85% Merlot, replanting is gradually introducing a touch more Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (the latter first included in the blend with the outstanding 2019 vintage). New oak is much better integrated than was the case a decade ago, and Gazin has gained in depth and energy.