Tharang II 6,021m – Southwest Face Expedition

Tharang II Southwest Face Expedition Tharang II—also known as Shailaputri—is a 6,021-metre Himalayan summit above the Uldhampu Valley in Himachal Pradesh. This 14-day, Keylong-to-Keylong expedition approaches the mountain through Khanjer before establishing Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2 and a 5,270-metre summit camp. The southwest route combines a remote Himalayan approach with progressive acclimatization, load ferries and technical climbing at altitude. Depending on current mountain conditions, participants should be prepared for glacier travel, scree, loose rock, steep snow, roped climbing and rappelling. The Southwest Face A 2012 British expedition referred to the peak as Tharang II. Charlie French and Anette Kinde made the first documented ascent in October 2016 and named the summit Shailaputri. Their southwest-face route crossed the glacier and steep scree before following ramps to a prominent spur. Above approximately 5,800 metres, they climbed around 250 metres of 50–60° snow, using ice-screw and rock protection where possible. They graded the climb AD and descended by reversing the spur and completing three long rappels. The historical account also identifies loose rock and rockfall as significant hazards. It provides useful route context, but the exact line and conditions encountered during this expedition may differ. Read the American Alpine Journal route report Expedition Style The itinerary uses staged camps and load ferries to support acclimatization and move equipment progressively higher. Two buffer days are included, but they may be used at any stage in response to weather, route conditions, team health or operational delays.