Yi Chang Hao 2003

For lovers of mild, meditative Shengs. Yi Chang was the first and flagship brand of the acclaimed Changtai Tea Group during their earlier years. The 2003 vintage received several different pressings of different grades, but the very best were sealed in these small 100-gram cakes, which have been ageing in dry storage for more than fifteen years. The dry leaves, which smell of old wood and spices, produce a liquor that is sweet and terribly smooth, with the soft umami of lobster mushrooms or even tender scallops. Rounded by the spiciness of pepper and a palpable hui gan like eucalyptus, its velvety mouthfeel is pure pleasure to drink. A treat for those who enjoy age-mellowed Sheng, and a rarity for collectors. Watch Gabriele's review of these little bing cha: