Vintage 1980s Chipie Swedish Military Dispatch Riders Jacket

A fly-front leather jacket in the tradition of the Swedish military Ordonnansjacka, the dispatch rider's jacket developed for the Swedish armed forces during the 1940s and 1950s. This example was produced by Chipie Cuir Production, a French leather manufacturer working within the same moment as Chevignon and Redskins, and made explicitly for the Swedish market. The Sweden Market label and Ab Chipie Konfektionsfabrik designation confirm a dedicated Scandinavian export run. This is not a jacket that references that tradition loosely; it reproduces it directly, detail by detail. The Ordonnansjacka was developed for military motorcycle dispatch riders, engineered around the specific demands of riding in cold northern conditions. The asymmetric front closure was designed to block wind across the chest while in the saddle. The laced hem allowed the jacket to be drawn tight over heavy clothing. The removable wool liner provided insulation that could be added or stripped depending on conditions. The toggle collar closure sealed the neck without requiring gloved hands to work a zip or conventional button. Every functional detail on this jacket has a precise origin in that brief. The front closes on a fly placket with four plain domed grey buttons, finished with leather loop buttonholes rather than worked holes, a construction detail drawn from uniform and military tailoring tradition. A single flap pocket sits to the left chest. At the collar, two turned wooden toggle pegs pass through leather loops, original and intact, a closure type directly carried over from the military original and rarely seen on civilian jackets of this period. Across the back hem a full-width lace-through eyelet system in black leather allows the waist to be drawn in independently. The cuffs close on a single domed button each. The interior is lined in a warm oatmeal wool, clean and well kept throughout. The facing carries leather-bound button loops, a construction detail that echoes the military Ordonnansjacka tradition from which this jacket draws its design. The outer is a fine pebbled leather, exceptionally soft in the hand, consistent with high quality calfskin or lamb. The colour is a deep black-brown, surface dyed over the natural base, with the original tone visible at seams and worn edges where the leather has moved through use. The hide is fully supple throughout with no dryness or brittleness, and the grain is stable with wear confined entirely to the surface. Condition and Preservation The jacket presents in very good condition for its age. The leather is structurally sound, supple and consistent throughout, with a light surface patina at seams and raised areas that reflects careful wear over time. The wool liner is clean and intact. All fastenings, buttons, toggles, eyelets are present and fully functional. All seams are secure. It has been professionally cleaned and lightly conditioned in the workshop, preserving the original tone and patina without altering the character of the hide. A well-preserved and historically grounded example of 1980s French leather production, built to the specification of a specific military garment and made for the market that garment belongs to. Key Details 1980s Chipie Cuir Production leather jacket, French label for Swedish market Civilian interpretation of the Swedish military Ordonnansjacka dispatch rider's jacket Chipie Cuir Production label present, size M Sweden Market label with Ab Chipie Konfektionsfabrik designation Fine pebbled leather, exceptionally soft, consistent with high quality calfskin or lamb Deep black-brown, surface dyed over natural base Asymmetric fly front placket with four domed grey buttons Leather loop buttonholes to facing Left chest flap pocket with domed button closure Wooden toggle collar fastening, original and intact Single domed button cuff closure to each sleeve Full-width lace-through eyelet system to back hem Oatmeal wool liner All fastenings present and functional Structure sound, all seams secure Cleaned and lightly conditioned in house Garment Measurements (Laid Flat) Chest (armpit to armpit): 24" Shoulders (seam to seam): 22" Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 17" Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff): 24" Back length (collar seam to hem): 25" Best suited to a 44" chest. This jacket is cut with a relaxed fit and a short back, and wears larger than the M label suggests. Please compare against the measurements above before purchasing.