2023 Carmelo Pena Santana, Bien de Altura 'Ikewen' Tinto, Gran Canaria, Spain

Ikewen comes from 7 own-rooted parcels on the NE side of Gran Canaria planted forty years ago (2024) with 85% Listan Negro and 15% other native grapes on a mix of steep to extremely steep slopes with eastern exposures at 1100-1460m on volcanic bedrock and sand, silt, clay, and rocky red topsoil. 100% whole-bunch, 5-week natural fermentation/maceration in steel without extractions. Aged one year in 85% in steel and 15% in 225-500L old French oak and neither fined nor filtered. With the 2023 vintage, he changed the labels to reflect more of his process and the seriousness he’s always taken in his craft. His whimsical early labels may have given a misperception of the wines, even if the wines were seriously good. And because he felt like he was put into the “natural wine” category by many despite the classic craftsmanship used in the cellar, he decided it was time for a change. Adorned with the native Guanche alphabet, surrounding a compass of sorts, with a black tip that points the direction of the vineyard aspect, as well as the altitude listed in meters. Tasted recently, the 2023 Ikewen was pretty and totally open straight out of the gate, with a big palate texture for the light color and nose. The herbal notes are beautiful, and the overall profile recalls some granite wines by Comando G I recently had at their cellar just a few weeks prior. At 12% alcohol, the characteristics feel melded together in a harmonious, analog way. After about ten minutes, the volcanic soils begin to show more clearly, and the structure starts to build, though it remains softer than the 2022 and comes across as more finely tuned than the more structured and well-built 2022. Here, the 2023 is very floral and fine, with an iodine-tinged palate. Among the range, it remained the most complete, with exotic blue and red fruit—purple grapes and Persian mulberry. On the second day (about eighteen hours later), it remained just as pretty—gorgeous, in fact. The tannins stay chalky and fine but show more presence on first taste, and the aromatics broaden into orange, persimmon, pink and red rose with a dusty, lifted character. This is one of those wines that look like nothing but taste like everything, recalling in some ways Cume do Avia’s Brancellao; or for those in need of a Burgundy reference, early 2000s Mugnier Chambolle—light to almost no color with plenty of aromatic thrust and substance on the nose and palate. - Ted Vance, the Source imports