Elio Sandri, Barolo Riserva Perno Vigna Disa DOCG (2017) – Piemonte

A hot, dry year turned into a dense, tannic Barolo, and the kind to forget about in the cellar. 2017 brought frost and then a long drought, and Sandri’s answer was a Riserva with real ripeness and an enormous tannic frame. It’s very young, and it needs time or a long decant. If you like your Barolo traditional and serious, this is the one. THE GRAPE 100% Nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba, from Sandri’s old vines in Perno. Cool nights in 2017 helped the grapes hold on to their freshness despite the heat. THE WINE Roses, violets, leather and dried strawberries, with tar, licorice, tobacco and anise underneath. The mid-palate is deep and layered, with a core of sweet fruit holding up a very large structure of tannin and acidity. It’s one of the more approachable 2017s, but still young, and it will keep for many years. FOOD PAIRING Roast lamb with rosemary, braised beef, game, aged mountain cheeses. Decant for two hours or more and serve at 16–18°C.