Orbita Lunae Limited Edition | Yellow Gold

One of just 31 examples, this Andersen Genève Orbita Lunae* is an innovative take on the wandering moonphase complication, bridging the gap between modern and traditional aesthetics in an attractive way. Several notable aspects of this watch include the mesmerising deep hue of its guilloché dial, as well as the striking triangular lugs attached to the case. Introduced in 2002, the Orbita Lunae is another addition to Andersen Genève's colourful collection, focusing on the moon's orbit around the earth. Making use of a variation on the wandering complication, the moon and the central disc rotate over the course of a month, indicating the date and the current phase of the moon. Only 31 examples of the Orbita Lunae were created, making this an intriguing and rarely-seen example from the brand. Andersen's early work was created at a time that sits between when Daniel Roth's most celebrated pieces were made and just before the rise of modern independents such as Kari Voutilainen. He was also contemporaries with Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis, watchmakers who showed that it was possible to create esoteric and intriguing examples that challenged watchmaking of the late 90s and early 00s. The watch combines both modern and traditional elements, with a solid gold dial mixed with a small amount of iron. The colour is transformed into a deep blue by heating the dial slowly, allowing a rich shade to form that sits somewhere between a deep green and blue. Meanwhile, an intricate wave-like guilloché pattern can be found across the blue gold, the pattern getting smaller and tighter towards the aperture. Below this is a separate disc that holds a golden moon with a smiling face engraved on the surface, and it is surrounded by a similar guilloché pattern. These traditional methods are juxtaposed against the modern sans-serif font that decorates the date ring surrounding the centre of the dial, with numerals in white against a black background. This monochrome palette is then flipped for the minute track on the outermost section, with the Andersen Genève signature placed below 6 o'clock, and a V-shaped indicator above 12 o'clock to point towards the dates. The function of the complication is quite ingenious, as each day of the month goes by, the engine-turned central section of the dial rotates anti-clockwise, making one full revolution every month. At the same time, the disc at the lowest position, holding the golden moon face, also rotates, with the various phases of the moon displayed over the course of the month through the circular aperture. Notably, instead of having a separate pusher on the case, the date change function is done entirely through the crown, which changes the date and moonphase simultaneously, a tricky feat of engineering to pull off. Andersen makes use of a vintage calibre in the Orbita Lunae, refinished and modified to his requirements and referred to as the 1147CD. The base calibre that powers this example is the A. Schild AS calibre 1716, which was introduced in 1964. It is a remarkably thin movement at just 4.1mm, with calendar functions and a ball-bearing winding rotor. This golden rotor is decorated with an asymmetrical engraving of interlocked "A" letters, a subtle inclusion of the watchmaker's signature. The visible bridges of the movement are also finished beautifully with Geneva striping and bevelled edges throughout. Cased in yellow gold, the lugs of this piece are especially notable, as they feature a triangular flare that sit at an angle to the rest of the rounded shape. These were created especially for the model. Closer look Brand: Andersen Genève Model: Orbita Lunae Movement: automatic calibre 1147-2CD Functions: moonphase, hours, minutes, seconds, date Features: limited edition of 31 pieces, 360-degree rotating moon phase display, display back Case material: yellow gold Case diameter: 38mm Case thickness: 10mm Lug-to-lug: 40mm Crystal: sapphire front & back Strap: saffiano strap from our own collection, Andersen Genève burgundy alligator strap, Andersen Genève yellow gold pin buckle Lug width: 20 x 16mm (curved) Year: N/A Accompanying materials: Andersen Genève outer box & inner watch winding box, certificate of origin & warranty (stamped & signed) Condition This Andersen Genève Orbita Lunae is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free of imperfections and have been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings are well defined. Warranty The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.