‘Varvara’ Castello di Bolgheri

The ‘Varvara’ Castello di Bolgheri is the second label of this fantastic ‘Super Tuscan’ estate that is sandwiched smack bang between Sassicaia and Ornellaia. For those of you who know these two wines you will be aware that they are two of the world’s most sought after and collectable wines. However if you are new to ‘Super Tuscan’ reds then this would be a fantastic place to start out. They are produced from classic Bordeaux varieties, usually Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (along with a few others in small quantities often.) These famous estates also make second and third label wines, which are designed to be drunk earlier and are softer and more approachable than the top wines in their youth. I list Ornellaia’s Le Serre Nuove, which in great years, is a litmus test for the top wine and often not too far off the pace either. Whilst the top wine goes for £235 a bottle, the Le Serre Nuove retails between £65 and £75 a bottle. The Varvara is Castello di Bolgheri’s answer to the Le Serre Nuove. Both Ornellaia and Sassicaia buy fruit from Castello di Bolgheri to make up part of their Le Serre Nuove and Guildalberto. In comparative terms the Varvara is an absolute bargain. (I’ll say that it may not be in the price realms of a Tuesday night tipple red but you know what I mean.) Crafted from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc for the percentage fans amongst you. Taste wise it really is much softer than it’s big brother, the Castello di Bolgheri. Really supple and smooth with punnet loads of ripe blackcurrant, cherry and redcurrant fruit, a soft touch of spice, tobacco notes and a creamy note on the impressively long finish. If you are new to wines from this part of the world I would sum it up as a fruitier, softer Bordeaux style. The famous critic, James Suckling, was the first to try the 2022 and labelled it as ‘entrancing’ and lauded it a very healthy 95 points. If you are a fan of Le Serre Nuove then this is a must try. Like their top wine though I started out with a fair bit but the response when on tasting was monumental. Hoping to source some more before it all goes. Get in touch if you’d like a larger quantity and I’ll see what I can come up with.