Stein, Riesling Holle ‘1900’ 2024

Variety: Riesling Ulrich “Ulli” Stein is often referred to as a “joyful rebel” or a “charismatic activist.” Who would dare to plant red grapes in the Mosel, defying a 2,000-year-old tradition of white grapes? And who could make any money doing it? Stein led a brief battle in 2010, challenging the EU to permit planting of red grapes, and won! There aren’t many growers who have had the nerve to follow in Stein’s footsteps, a rare gem. He’s got charisma and everyone just seems to like him. His wines are sourced from the traditional steep slate vineyards in the Mosel. His approach is more so about cut than size.