Paolo Bea, Umbria Rosso San Valentino, 2020

Paolo Bea is an Umbrian superstar and one of the founding fathers of Italy's natural wine movement, an uncompromisingly old-school estate where Giampiero Bea gives voice to his father's instincts through healthy farming and long, patient, low-intervention winemaking. San Valentino is the estate's Montefalco Rosso-style blend, drawn from an old vineyard of Sangiovese rounded out with Sagrantino and Montepulciano. It's more red-fruited and supple than the pure Sagrantino bottlings, but every bit as wild, honest, and alive. A wonderfully characterful red from a natural-wine icon. This is the 2020.