Yves Ruffin Premier Cru Extra Brut NV

Champagne Yves Ruffin was founded in 1971 by Yves Ruffin and his wife Odette Pitois. Both were born in families of winegrowers. From the start, they stood out from other winegrowers by choosing organic viticulture. Among thousands of winegrowers at the time, there were only 4 visionaries to take this decision in order to defend common values and the environment. They started with a 3 hectares (7.4 acres) vineyard in Avenay-Val-d’Or. By 1990 the family bought one-half hectare (1.2 acre) of vineyard in Tauxières-Mutry. They now have land in both Vallée de la Marne and la Montagne de Reims. After Yves’s retirement, his son Thierry Ruffin takes over the maison and starts modernizing it while perpetuating the know-how that made the maison stand out: organic viticulture, vinification in oak barrels, traditional pressing, longer ageing. His wife Sylvie and son Antonin are continuing the family business and the traditions of the maison. Unlike Ruffin’s Brut, the Extra Brut is always made from a single year, although this isn’t stated on the label. made of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, and fermented and aged for roughly six months in an old cask made of acacia wood. It’s dosed at 4 grams per liter, which I find to result in an excellent balance, as the natural ripeness of the fruit gives this plenty of depth, filling the palate with its citrus and apple aromas. It’s true that the wood signature here is completely different from those of Ruffin’s champagnes made in oak: compared to the Brut, this isn’t quite as fine in texture, and while the wood is slightly less pronounced, it feels somehow sauvage in tone, retaining a slightly untamed demeanor about it. It’s a fascinating wine—besides being delicious to drink, it’s an intriguing opportunity for education, as I don’t know of any other champagnes made entirely in acacia. Rated 94/100 by La Revue du Vin de France