Antique Victorian Enameled Mourning Demi-Parure

The sentimental "language" of Victorian jewelry is one of the most compelling and interesting things about it, and often allows us to learn about not only the pieces themselves, but about the person who would have originally worn it. This beautiful demi-parure, consisting of a brooch/pendant and a pair of earrings, is a fantastic example. Still ensconced in its original fitted box, it is a snapshot into the life of the woman who bought it. The set is very likely of Portuguese origin, and the symbolism and imagery present in this beautiful set allow us to come to the conclusion that it was meant to be worn during a mourning period, and perhaps well after, to commemorate the dearly departed. A combination of different colored gold flowers, leaves and vines represent life (forget-me-nots for remembrance, ivy to "cling" to a memory), while the central motif of the brooch/pendant, an upside-down spray of flowers, is a known Victorian era symbol of death. The addition of black enamel, as well as natural seed pearls (representing tears shed over the loss of a loved one) tell the story of someone dealing with grief and loss. The evidence of repairs and wear tell yet another story- one of love and respect for this set, being passed down through multiple generations, and likely eventually being worn as heirloom jewelry rather than mourning jewelry. The beautifully formed leaves, flowers and vines, the full drilled pearls, the fine black enamel, the abundance of layered details, and the custom fitted case lined in silk velvet all point towards this set having been a luxurious and important purchase. Tantalizingly, it seems that the top of the brooch may have once been removable, opening to a locket compartment meant to hold hair or a photo. I have not attempted to open it, and will not be doing so, but it was very common for mourning jewelry to include some sort of locket compartment. This set is made of a combination of 15k gold fill over silver/vermeil, gilt silver, and solid 15k and 19k gold. This combination of materials is not unusual for elaborately fabricated jewelry of this time period. The body and back plate of the brooch and earrings are heavy 15k gold fill or gold shell over silver/vermeil, while the applied floral elements and earring hooks/catches are various purities of karat gold (approximately 15k for rose gold and the twisted border, 19k-20k for the yellow gold leaves and vines). The combination of 19k and 15k gold, along with the heavy vermeil, strongly indicate Portuguese origin. This set is in good condition, and incredibly wearable. There are some small dents and evidence of wear, as well as multiple repairs (though the repairs themselves are quite old.) The brooch shows the most wear, with obvious replacement of both the pin and the hinged bail. There is wear to the gold layer in back, and a small silver solder repair where the central floral element is attached to the back via a post. This does not test as lead. The earrings show less wear, though the hooks and small triangular safety catches appear to be replacements. All of the detailed floral elements, pearls and enamel are fully intact and undamaged. The fitted case has threadbare spots inside where the silk velvet is shedding, including a large bare patch underneath where the brooch sits. Brooch/pendant measures 1.75" tall and 1.25" wide. Earrings measure 1.75" from top of hook to bottom of dangle and 0.5" wide.